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Kenichi to Host a Saké Dinner

If you missed the SideDish Supper Club that took place at Kenichi last May, you only have to wait until November 11 to experience another exceptional sake dinner. This time, chef Hung Nguyen and staff are putting together an “unprecedented in Texas” dinner and focusing on nama, or unpasteurized, saké. The dinner menu will revolve around seasonal, and, in some cases, local ingredients. Some of the sakes will make their Texas debut. One, an aged nama genshu, is unpasteurized and undiluted (almost 19% alcohol, “cask strength”). It is rested for 2 years and, according to chef Hung,“rather rare.” Jump for the menu, more information, and to find out why namas also tend to be umami bombs.
As you already know, sake is very “pure”, its only ingredients being water, yeast, rice, and koji-kin, with no preservatives addition allowed. But most premium sake is around 15.5% alcohol, which isn’t enough to stabilize the brew, stop fermenting enzyme action, or prevent bacterial or mold growth. Therefore, premium sake is typically pasteurized twice: once before the collected and filtered brew is “rested” (usually 6 months to 2 years) in large containers and again after it has been bottled. Both the resting and the pasteurization “mellows” the flavor and bouquet.

Nama, or “draft” sake, is unpasteurized or pasteurized just once instead of twice. Its flavor and aroma, not always favored by sake purists, tends to be more brash, more in-your-face. For “new world” and fusion cuisine, however, I personally think it’s an exciting taste frontier. “Namas” also tend to me umami “bombs” and can serve as more examples for those wanting to familiarize themselves with this “fifth taste”. Namas have to be refrigerated for the entirety of its relatively short life, from fermentation through consumption. If a consumer sees a sake labeled “draft” on unrefrigerated store shelves, it might not be a “real” nama.

I’ll lead a discussion of sake tasting, and specifically namazake, at our five-course dinner on Nov 11th, where I will, hopefully, be able to announce the latest sake certification by a Kenichi sake service team member. We’re all wishing him the best as he pursues this endeavor!

Dinner is $100 per person plus tax and gratuity. 214-871-8883

The dinner menu, using seasonal, befitting the Autumn theme, and, in some cases, local ingredients, is below, as are sake pairings. Some of these sakes are introduced to Texas at this dinner (to be truthful, I’m still working out the logistics of getting it here). One is a aged nama genshu, unpasteurized and undiluted (almost 19% alcohol, “cask strength”) but rested for 2 years–rather rare. This example is from Hiroshima, where the very very soft water used in production often leads to a luxurious mouth feel.

Kenichi Dallas Autumn 2009 Sake Dinner
11 November 2009
An exploration of nama (“unpasteurized”) sake

First Course
Seto Naikai (Seto inland sea) mirugai (geoduck) and hokkigai (surf clam) salad
Autumn sansai (mountain vegetables)
Japanese vinaigrette

Chikurin Taoyaka “Elegance” nama-chozo junmai daiginjo (Okayama)

Second Course
Roasted kabocha soup
Pan-seared Hokkaido sea scallops
Vanilla crème fraiche
Pumpkin oil

Ama no to “Heaven’s Gate” nama junmai (Akita)

Third Course
Awaji-shima bo-zushi
Shiro shoyu
Oroshi of ginger

Nanbu Bijin “Southern Beauty” nama junmai Ginjo (Iwate)

Fourth Course
Peppercorn-dusted Broken Arrow Ranch Texas sika sirloin
Matsutake and Grilled Shishito
Roasted heirloom fingerling potatoes

Kamoizumi “Red Maple” 2-year aged namagenshu ginjo (Hiroshima)

Fifth Course
Japonica (Japanese short grain) mango rice pudding
Molasses drizzle
Matcha shortbread cookie

Masumi Arabashiri “First Run” nama ginjo (Nagano)

Items subject to availability
$100 per person plus tax & gratuity