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Does Dallas Need Another $16 Burger?

Smoke's $16 burger

Smoke's $16 burger

Full disclosure: I’m a Cliffdweller and love/hate that the 75225 crowd have discovered how cool life south of the Trinity can be. (Overheard one night at Bolsa: “Oh my gawd! Look at that taco hut across the street, y’all. Have you ever seen so many in your life?” So many what? You figure it out.) That said, I was stoked that the Bolsa owners and chef/co-owner Tim Byres took over Cliff Cafe — a decent hotel restaurant at The Belmont — and reimagined it as a frou frou smokehouse. So, far I’ve been loving the meats (sweet paprika and fennel seed sausage = savory goodness) and breakfast (my new favorite home for biscuits and gravy) at Smoke. But the EB&D Loaded Up and Truckin’ burger is almost as ridiculous as its name: Burgundy beef (so far, so good) topped with bacon, a farm egg fritter, sharp cheddar, onion, tomato, and lettuce all on a griddled honey bun. Two bites into it, my hands were dripping with meat juices and egg yolk, my jaw hurt, and I admitted defeat. It was simply too much of everything. Dissecting the burger, I appreciated the well seasoned beef patty cooked a perfect medium as well as the lightly fried poached egg. But bacon on a burger needs to be crisp. This was thick cut and, alas, flabby. For $16, it was an orgy of competing tastes and textures my mouth couldn’t appreciate. Nor do I appreciate this burger trend of piling everything between two buns, charging almost $20 for it, and declaring it “gourmet.” No. Gourmet is a burger where I can actually taste and savor the beef. So far, I really like Smoke. But this burger bugged me. Am I alone on this issue, SideDishers?





16 Comments to “Does Dallas Need Another $16 Burger?”
  • TLS

    No, Todd. You are not alone. The picture of that burger shows how ridiculous things have gotten in burger world. The price doesn’t matter if it is quality meat, produce, and bun. But I couldn’t shove that thing in my mouth on a dare. I’d rip the sides of my lips and need surgery. Scarred for life from a burger!

  • FortWorthGuy

    They used to call something like this a Dagwood!

  • anon

    There are diminishing returns on expensive burgers. If you are a ‘Cliffdweller’, then I would think Wingfields is the example of how good burgers should be done. If you are willing to come north, then Maple & Motor probably offers the best “gourmet” burger – and at an appropriate price point.

  • luniz

    so then why order one?

  • Rawlins Nichol-Plated

    If, after eating a $16 burger, I would look suddenly like the chef at Nonna, here’s my Visa bankcard. Otherwise in no particularly order ….since they are 4 different versions of a God-fearing All-American red/white and blue burger:… Wingfield’s, Lee Harvey’s for bombs away versions and Riverside Grill (940 N Industrial Blvd) and Fiesta on S. Buckner for exquisite versions of cheap-thrill traditional treasure temptations.

  • TLS

    @luniz-
    Because you don’t know how big it is until you get it, and then what are you going to do?

  • Rawlins Nichol-Plated

    An aside: When confronted with a burger, as was Todd et al, that is too tall and thick and stacked to attempt surrounding with any known human mouth’s lip/teeth pairings, here is a suggestion.

    Take the (assuming cloth if they are charging this much) napkin and set the burger with both hands down on the open napkin, then fold edges of napkin in over burger much like we fold the American Flag at Scout camp. After the burger is encased, place between two bread or salad plates furnished by server upon request (the top plate face down, the bottom plate beneath burger face up). Then wrap the plated burger again in a cloth napkin (or two). Then stand up and place the armor duo-plated / wrapped sandwiched burger on the floor and remove your shoe and gently but firmly step on the configuration until one sees squirting juices saturating sides of cloth napkin. Stop before floor becomes overwhelmed with liquids.

    Pick up and return to table. Unfold and cut into quarters with a chef’s steak knife (furnished upon demand by the server) and then wrap each section in a cocktail napkin (furnished by the bar upon request and/or demand) and proceed. Simple.

  • Scagnetti

    @Rawlins Nichol-Plated
    You took the loooong way around for that one…

  • Rawlins Nichol-Plated

    Well, Scagnetti, La Nichols’ would have winced had I written: ‘Wrap in napkin, place in plastic bag and sit on it’.

  • Mark

    When you saw the carrots on the plate it should have been sent back.

  • Rawlins Nichol-Plated

    To Mark’s point: May I quote my Russian friend Naum who has lived in Dallas for 30 years.

    “Why put a saddle on a cow?”

  • sara

    For what it is worth the place has around six sandwichs all at $6.00 to choose from.

  • Sindie

    None of those $6 sandwiches come with any sides. Individual-portion sides are $4 each.

  • rob

    questforburgers.blogspot.com

  • Chefs

    Dallas might not need another $16 burger, but what about $171.

    http://www.chefsworld.net/chefs_forum3.asp?FTID=e1xU

  • John

    Went to smoke.

    It was good.

    Most annoying part was the giant sheets of paper they used in each of the baskets. Couldn’t even see where my food was.

    Otherwise I give it a solid B