Articles for September, 2009

Nancy’s Eat and Tweet: Join Me For Dinner

I’m headed out to do a restaurant review. I’m going to Twitter while I work. Join me DSideDish.

Kent Rathbun Does Something Texan at His “Texas Grown” Restaurant

The last time I was at Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen, the lengthy wine list had only two wines from Texas. I don’t know if the list has been updated, but Mr. Rathbun is hosting a Texan wine dinner on Monday, October 19th with Dr. Richard and Bunny Becker of Becker Vineyards. Great menu with great wine. Jump for the full description and details. Continue reading "Kent Rathbun Does Something Texan at His “Texas Grown” Restaurant"

Rumors Behind the Restaurant News: Tracy Miller of Local in Deep Ellum Looking Around?

One of my I-know-everybody friends was lunching at Salum in Uptown and files this report:

While lunching at Salum, I saw Local chef/owner Tracy Miller with Bryan Haase checking out the abandoned space next door to Salum. It used to be Couture Cleaners. Looks like someone is planning a new restaurant. Question: Is the talented Ms. Miller involved and what does this mean for Local?

Good sassy questions, my boy. Haase is, according to his Twitter page, a Commercial Real Estate Guru.

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Janet Kafka: SideDish Readers Want Taberna del Alabardero in Dallas

Janet and Terry Kafka in Aspen last summer.
Janet and Terry Kafka in Aspen last summer.

This just in from Andrew Chalk:

Thanks to Kirk for the heads-up to this article from the El Paso Times. Basque Restaurant Taberna del Alabardero is preparing a multi-course meal at the Coronado County Club in El Paso consisting of specialties from the Basque region of Spain. Examples include a typical Taberna pincho (Basque version of tapa): bacalao brandade (salt dried cod puree, olive oil, milk and/or cream, spices, herbs, etc.) stuffed in thinly sliced rolled zucchini slices topped with Romesco sauce (a mixture of tomatoes, peppers, onion, garlic, almonds or hazelnuts and olive oil) not to mention Jamon Iberico (Iberian ham).

Perhaps most intriguing is the reason a famous Basque Taberna is doing a meal in El Paso. It was arranged by the Honorary Consul General of Spain. Now Dallas doesn’t have a Spanish Consul General, but Google points to  The Honorable Janet Pollman Kafka as an Honorary Consul of Spain.  Any chance of getting her to contact Taberna del Alabardero and tell them Dallas would fill up their Basque meal as well (probably for many nights)?

Hey Janet, old buddy. I smell a SideDish Supper Club waiting to happen. Call me, let’s talk.

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Former Dallas Restaurant Critics: Mary Brown Malouf

Mary Brown Malouf at my high school graduation.
Mary Brown Malouf at my high school graduation.

I’ve been at my post here at D Magazine for 13 years. Sometime I wonder how many calories I have eaten; other times I wonder how many of those calories were actually worth ingesting. Restaurant reviewers eat more low-to-medium quality food than spectacular meals.

Anywhoo, in the post below, I mentioned Michael Hiller. He used to be a critic at the DMN. Over the years, I’ve seen lots of “critics” come and go. Anyone remember Betty Cook? Suzanne Hough (R.I.P)? Dave Faries? (Oh, he’s still here.) Or Mary Brown Malouf?

Mary was a real biyatch when she wrote dining reviews for the Dallas Observer. When she came to work at D in the late 90s, we became good friends. But Mary ditched D and Dallas and she’s now the Food and Travel editor at Salt Lake City Magazine. I just looked on their site and found a classic Mary Brown Malouf rant.  Gosh, I’m all nostalgic. Call me, Bill.

billHow about you? Who do you miss? Who do you love? Who do you hate?

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Shawn Horne Out as GM at Wolfgang Puck’s Five Sixty

The Snooty Foodies have the scoop, but it’s only in their newsletter, and not on their website, that I can find. So, here’s the pasted version:

Our good buddy, Elvis groupie, and the fastest wine taster in Dallas metro, Shawn Horne, has left as GM of Wolfgang Puck’s big gyrating ball in the sky Five-Sixty effective last week. We won’t say it was a matter of too many cooks in the kitchen or that wolves in sheep’s clothing were always lurking…but… Mr. Horne ain’t scared of heights either so you do the math.

What a bummer for Five Sixty. But! Horne already has another gig. Read on:

Unlike the real Elvis, Shawn hasn’t crashed and burned (or overdosed). He’s heading over to run the new restaurant Dish in the Illumina building on Cedar Springs and Douglas. Rumor has it Chef Doug Brown is also involved in the project and they are targeting a November 1 start date (which probably means February in restaurant speak). From the info we’ve seen, Dish appears to dance on the fringe of fine dining American – sorta like a chef driven Houston’s.

Good scoop SF, and good luck to Shawn Horne.

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Petroni Vineyards Dinner at The Grape Tonight

Note from SideDish reader Brian Luscher who happens to be the chef/onwer of The Grape:

We have had some last minute cancellations have come in and now have a few openings for this exclusive 5-course wine paired dinner featuring Petroni VineyardsMr. Petroni and son Marco will be in attendance. This will be an intimate event with only a small number of guests in our private wine room. 7:00pm. Cost is  $135 per guest. 214-828-1981.

I call that an ad for your win dinner, Luscher. Send more gift certificates.

Bailey’s Prime Plus is Minus an Executive Chef

According to EscapeHatchDallas.com, co-executive chef Chris Meier resigned from for undisclosed reasons. A source “close to the situation” says, “Too many chiefs in the kitchen.” The rest of the culinary team is discussed here.

UPDATE: I just realized the editor of EscapeHatchDallas is former DMN restaurant critic, Mike Hiller, Nice.

The Côtes du Coeur Society Will Party at One Arts Plaza

There is still time to join in the fun and support the American Heart Association tomorrow night as the Côtes du Coeur Society hosts an evening of great food and drink from the restaurants at One Arts and live music. Tickets are $20 in advance and $30 at the door. Click here or call 214-712-1345 (6:00 – 8:00 p.m. 1722 Routh Street).

Mini-Review: Carolina’s Mexican Cuisine in Dallas

carolina's 008I was in North Dallas this weekend and popped into Carolina’s Mexican Cuisine for a quick lunch. It’s a huge space with a ginormous patio. It was 12:45 p.m. and there were only three other tables, a reality that would scare the elastic-waist pantalones off of me if I was trying to open four restaurants within six months of each other.

Brisket tacos.

Brisket tacos.

Owner Carolina Galvan-Rodriguez is the former wife of MCrowd (Mi Cocina, Taco Diner) visionary Mico Rodriquez. She has set out on her own with big plans—earlier this year she announced she would be unveil two locations of Carolina’s (Rosemeade opened on June 7th; Central and Parker in Plano on June 26th) and two Taco Mundo retaurants (Preston Royal and Centreport in Fort Worth). Preston Royal was originally slated to open on July 24, while August 4th was the date for Centreport. According to Rodriquez’s publicist, Sharon Adams, both Taco Mundo locations have been delayed “due to construction.”

The food we tried at the Rosemeade location was delightful. A huge scoop of guacamole, warm fried chips, and salsa came immediately along with a nice stiff glass of freshly brewed tea with lime. We sampled brisket tacos—stringy in a good way soft meat laced with hot peppers and mild queso fresco was tucked into four fresh four-inch corn tortillas. Two pork tamales were covered in a chili gravy sauce and were served with fluffy Spanish rice, clean (not lard-ridden) refried beans, pico de gallo. Tex-Mex options offer mix and match enchiladas and sauces: Choose chicken, beef, or cheese enchiladas and cover with chili con carne, chili con queso, ranchera, spicy queso, sour cream sauce, or tomatillo.

We didn’t try one, but the margaritas are priced at $6.95. Anyone? Jump for more photos.

Continue reading "Mini-Review: Carolina’s Mexican Cuisine in Dallas"

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Get Your Love Shack Burger Fix at Austin City Limits

aclA music-loving tipster just sent me this info: Fort Worth’s favorite cowboy hat-wearing chef, Tim Love, is bringing his Love Shack to Austin City Limits this weekend. I’ve never been to the festival before, but apparently there’s an Eats Food Court in Zilker Park where restaurants set up shop and serve food. Oh, here’s the list of restaurants. Love’s burgers will fit in just fine with Torchy’s Tacos (yes please), Amy’s Ice Cream, and more. Almost makes me wish I was going.

Sneak Peek of John Tesar’s Modern Steak and Seafood

For those of you who’ve been missing the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek‘s former chef John Tesar, his new restaurant in the Woodlands is open. The Brad has a sneak peek over here. He calls the space “sexy” and the food “seductive.” He’s seems definitely, um, excited. Also worth noting: Tesar has his own line of condiments now, with a little cartoon Tesar on each bottle. Brad mentions a wasabi mustard, and it looks like there’s also a ketchup, and a chipotle BBQ sauce.

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Guessing Games: Identify This Chicken Fried Steak

DSCN4018This chicken fried steak was consumed on Sunday night. Have you tried it? Do you know where it is served? You can check this list or this one for clues. There’s a prize at the end of the tunnel. (Scott, you are not eligible for contest.)

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Samar by Stephan Pyles: Picture Slideshow

plyes2More pictures here from the camera of Jerry McClure.

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Food Porn: Tasting Room at Lola

Holy cow, the boys over at Dallasfood.org posted some fabulous pictures from a recent dinner at the Tasting Room at Lola. Here’s a link to GavList’s review and photos. Nicely done.

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Avanti Euro Bistro in Addison is Closed

Joanna Cattanach, over at ChickTalk, reports that Avanti Euro  Bistro at Addison Circle has closed.

There’s a lawyers note on the door and all of the materials including napkins and place settings are still locked inside. Even the peppermint dish. The other two locations are still open—for now. Sad to see them closed. They didn’t seem like they had that much business but since Jack Ekhtiar’s death, they (his wife and partner) seemed committed to keeping the location open.

Mini-Review: Hoppin’ John at Peggy Sue Barbecue in Dallas

peggysueThe first time I had a bowl of Hoppin’ John was a zillion years ago in South Carolina. Now I get my fix at Peggy Sue Barbecue. Say what you want about the ribs (love ‘em), brisket, and onion rings, but this dish, made with black-eyed peas, medium grained rice, bacon, diced onion and garlic, gringo peppers, and juicy smoke-flavored pulled pork and caramelized red onion is smashing. Simply smashing.

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Is the City of Dallas Health Department Shutting Down Local Farmers Markets?

PeoplePower-756803I’ve been hearing rumors for weeks that city officials were making the rounds and visiting the small farmers markets that have cropped up in spots such as Celebration, Bolsa, and North Haven Gardens. Now comes official word from Ed Lowe of Celebration. They have shut him down and he’s going to the Dallas City Council.

The City of Dallas Health Department has decided that the Celebration Farmers Market is in violation of certain codes. Celebration was told on 2 previous occasions that we could operate a Farmers Market in our parking lot under our existing permits. We strongly believe that all food handling practices and food products at the Farmers Market were perfectly safe. We have complied strictly with all Health Department codes for 38 years and take our responsibility to public health VERY SERIOUSLY.

We appreciate the warm welcome and support that you’ve provided our Saturday Farmers Market. We believe that what we along with our wonderful vendors are offering is a safe, fun and convenient setting for you to purchase healthy, delicious, local produce and other products.

We are going to approach the Dallas City Council to explore how the code can be modified to allow the Celebration Farmers Markets and others like us to provide a valuable service to the citizens of Dallas while protecting the public health.

I have contacted Ed and asked him for instructions on how you can sign the petition he plans to take to the Dallas City Council. Stay tuned. (OMG, I can hear Amy Severson already.)

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Samar by Stephan Pyles in Dallas: VIP Grand Opening Party

Samar’s creators paid huge attention to design. The following video is a tour of the restaurant with Stephan Pyles. (Pardon the sound; the place was packed.)

We sent Andrew Chalk to cover the semi-soft opening of Samar by Stephan Pyles. Here is his report. You want chandeliers? Stephan Pyles bought some chandeliers for Samar. Go Andrew:

Samar by Stephan Pyles held its invite-only preview party on Saturday and, judging by the turnout, reservations to this new eatery are going to be hard to get. (The official opening day is still TBD but planned for “early October.”)

Saturday, close to 1,000 of Stephan’s closest friends piled into the restaurant, the patio, and a specially rented spillover area. Despite the crowd, the staff coped with the rush like a well-oiled machine. Even the periodic guest-dropping-a-glass-in-a-crowded-bar problem was immediately met with a staffer who cordoned off the area while another cleaned it clean up. The kitchen and wait staff dispatched appetizers with that frictionless regularity which makes you wonder if the servers aren’t on roller skates.

The centerpiece of any restaurant is the food. Pyles installed Vijay Sadhu, formerly of Bukhara Grille and Clay Pit, as head chef because he wanted Indian cuisine to be one of the inspirations at Samar.The other influences on the menu come from Spain and the area loosely defined as the Eastern Mediterranean (mainly Lebanon, Syria, and Turkey). Here is chef Sadhu describing some of the appetizers.

Chef Sadhu showed the crowd his ambitious stuff—all of the food was prepared perfectly. As he showed at his earlier positions, Vijay Sadhu is an expert and combining flavors and bringing them out in his dishes. Here is a short list of what was served: Red Lentiles Kofte (Turkish), Kebbeh with Golden beets tzatziki sauce, Chicken kebab stuffed with spiced gound lamb served with Spice tomato jam and crispy okra, Saffron Paneer tikka with spiced vermicelli and cumin scented asparagus, Chocolate Samosa with rose jam, and Papadam cones stuffed with Mung sprouts

Guests were offered either a specially created martini that apparently involved pomegranate juice (and had a fruity approachability that made it deceptively easy to imbibe) or one of a number of respectable wines.This food, by the way, is wine-friendly.

Outside, the patio was put to good use. Belly dancers entertained the crowd that, coincidentally, became progressively less and less reserved.

Hookah pipes were available to complete one’s sense transportation from the corner of Ross and Olive to some exotic country.


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The Wooden Spoon in Plano: JulMust

julAndrew Chalk gives you another good reason to drive outside of the loop. Already there? Good for you.

Saker går bättre med Coke!

According to FreeTranslation.com that is Swedish for “Things Go Better with Coke,” a Coca-Cola slogan from the distant past. I am not sure if it ever reached Sweden, in part because the Swedes have their own brown soft drink JulMust. It is not a straight cola, tasting like carbonated caramel, but it fulfills the same role. It must be therapeutic as the side label lists its ingredients as “Filtered carbonated water, sugar, caramel color, flavors produced by natural hops and malt (produced from barley), citric acid, natural and artificial flavors, sodium benzoate (preservative)”. I can assure you that it tastes as good as it sounds. Its $2.25 (with 10cents back on the bottle if you drive to Michigan). If you fancy trying this unusual beverage, and a host of other Scandinavian delicacies, put on your best Viking helmet, re-read chapter one of Pillaging for Dummies and head to The Wooden Spoon in East Plano.

Driving to East Plano? Ingen problem, rätt!?

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