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Restaurant Review: Café On The Green

Chicken Natale. Photo by Kevin Hunter Marple.
Chicken Natale. Photo by Kevin Hunter Marple.

Recently I dined at Café on the Green in the Four Seasons Las Colinas. The dining room is lovely and Master Sommelier James Tidwell’s wine list is fun and affordable. It’s a hotel and we were there on a weekday night so most of the diners were out-of-towners. Chef Katie Natale’s menu is short but varied—New American-ish dishes such as crab cakes, Texas quail, and braised veal cheek. As much as I was tempted to try the veal, I decided to go with what I thought most travelers would pick—Chicken Natale. After all, their impressions of Dallas cuisine is an important part of presenting the Dallas area flavor profile to the rest of the world. Anywhoo, here is my review

Update: This morning I received an e-mail from the restless Mr. Tidwell:

At least one thing has changed since your visit. Every once in a while, I need to find addition creative outlets. So, last week I decided to rewrite the wine list. I added a few selections, but mostly I added commentary. My own. Sometimes a bit cheeky. The servers and guests have loved it. Hope it provides you with some happy reading.

The new wine list at Café on the Green is below the jumperoo. Café on the Green Wine List
I hope that you enjoy the range of wines within. In keeping with the
diverse facets of Four Seasons Resort and Club, the wine list
reflects the places, grape varieties, and wine styles available from
around the world. In seeking these wines, I have realized that we
live in an era of unprecedented depth and breadth for quality wine.
Some of these bottles might be trusted and classic favorites, while
others might be exciting and new discoveries. Our servers are
happy to assist you in finding that special wine to complement your
taste. Whatever your choice, I encourage you to make the evening
an experience. Perhaps, the words of Robert Frost provide
inspiration…
“Two roads diverged…
And I took the one less traveled by
And that has made all the difference.”
James Tidwell
Master Sommelier
7/23/2009 1

5 oz. 2 oz.
Champagne and Sparkling Wine Glass Taste
Trevisiol Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Extra Dry [Veneto, Italy] NV 11 5
100% Prosecco fermented in stainless steel to retain freshness and vibrant fruit
Ferrari Brut [Trentino, Italy] NV 16 7
100% Chardonnay made by metodo classico, the traditional method made famous in Champagne
Louis Roederer Brut Premier [Champagne, France] NV 20 8
5 oz. 2 oz.
White Wines Glass Taste
Riesling, Mönchhof, Robert Eymael Estate [Mosel, Germany] 2007 12 5
Grüner Veltliner, Leth [Wagram, Austria] 2007 12 5
THE traditional white wine grape of Austria, a crisp, clean and savory wine
Pinot Grigio, Angelini [Veneto, Italy] 2006 9 4
Sauvignon Blanc, Hanna, Slusser Road Vineyard [Russian River, California] 2006 10 5
Treana, Mer Soleil Vineyard [Central Coast, California] 2007 15 7
Viognier and Marsanne grapes make a fragrant, rich California interpretation of Rhöne Valley wines
Chardonnay, Sharpe Hill, American Barrel Fermented [Connecticut] 2006 9 4
Chardonnay, Sanford [Santa Barbara County, California] 2005 13 6
Chablis, Jean-Marc Brocard, Domaine Sainte Claire [Burgundy, France] 2007 18 8
Traditional unoaked Chardonnay from one of the world’s great wine areas
2 oz.
Saké Taste
Junmai Ginjo, Meibo Yowano Tsuki, Midnight Moon [Aichi Prefecture, Japan] 7
5 oz. 2 oz.
Red Wines Glass Taste
Zinfandel, Four Vines, Old Vine Cuvée [California] 2006 9 4
Crozes-Hermitage, Gilles Robin, Papillon [Rhone Valley, France] 2005 18 8
Syrah from the Northern Rhöne Valley, made to express the purity of the fruit and the land
Pinot Noir, Boulder Bank [Marlborough, New Zealand] 2006 14 6
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Sanguineti [Tuscany, Italy] 2005 19 8
100% Prugnolo Gentile = Sangiovese, and a benchmark wine of Tuscany that rivals Chianti
Malbec, Doña Paula, Estate [Mendoza, Argentina] 2005 9 4
Merlot, Powers [Columbia Valley, Washington] 2006 10 5
Merlot, Trefethen, Estate [Oak Knoll District, California] 2004 14 6
Cabernet Sauvignon, Andeluna [Mendoza, Argentina] 2007 11 4
Cabernet Sauvignon, 75 Wine Company [Red Hills, Lake County, California] 2006 15 7
Wines By The Glass
7/23/2009 2
Cabernet Sauvignon, Ladera [Napa, California] 2005 19 8
7/23/2009 3
HALF BOTTLES
Sparkling Wines
327 Louis Roederer Brut Premier [Champagne, France] NV 49
White Wines
342 Riesling, Dme. Weinbach, Schlossberg Grand Cru [Alsace, France] 2004 55
332 Riesling Kabinett, Selbach-Oster [Mosel, Germany] 2005 31
338 Pinot Grigio, Marco Felluga, Mongris [Collio, Italy] 2007 27
337 Pinot Blanc, Robert Sinskey [Los Carneros, California] 2005 41
350 Sauvignon Blanc, Araujo Estate Wines [Napa, California] 2005 45
339 Semillon, L’Ecole No. 41 [Columbia Valley, Washington] 2006 25
331 Morey Saint Denis, Dme. Ponsot, 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants [France] 2004 71
344 Chassagne-Montrachet, Château de la Maltroye [France] 2006 63
334 Meursault, Matrot [France] 2006 31
343 Chardonnay, Martinelli, Charles Ranch [Sonoma Coast, California] 2006 59
LARGE FORMAT BOTTLES
364 Meursault, Dme. Rémi Jobard, 1er Cru Genevrières [Burgundy, France] 1.5 liter 2004 285
362 Chardonnay, Jordan [Russian River, Sonoma, California] 1.5 liter 2003 140
365 Sauvignon Blanc, Duckhorn [Napa, California] 1.5 liter 2006 135
Half Bottle and Large Format Selections – Sparkling and White Wines
7/23/2009 4
HALF BOTTLES
Red Wines
928 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Clos des Papes [Rhône, France] 2006 105
944 Chianti Classico DOCG, Felsina, Berardenga [Tuscany, Italy] 2006 33
938 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, Avignonesi [Tuscany, Italy] 2005 31
941 Clos des Lambrays, Dme. des Lambrays, Grand Cru [Côte de Nuits, France] 2004 135
927 Pinot Noir, Martinelli, Zio Tony Ranch [Russian River, Sonoma, California] 2007 85
926 Pinot Noir, Au Bon Climat, La Bauge Au-dessus [Santa Maria Valley, California] 2007 43
960 Merlot, Keenan [Napa, California] 2005 49
936 Merlot, L’Ecole No. 41 [Columbia Valley, Washington] 2005 39
937 Shiraz, D’Arenberg, The Dead Arm [McLaren Vale, Australia] 2004 75
947 Syrah, Qupé [Central Coast, California] 2007 32
951 Zinfandel, A. Rafanelli [Dry Creek Valley, California] 2006 53
932 Zinfandel, Seghesio, Old Vine [Sonoma, California] 2006 41
930 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paradigm [Oakville, Napa, California] 2004 81
954 Cabernet Sauvignon, Clark-Claudon Vineyards [Napa, California] 2004 77
949 Isosceles, Justin Vineyards and Winery [Paso Robles, California] 2005 75
933 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mettler Family Vineyards, Estate Grown [Lodi, California] 2006 37
942 Cabernet Sauvignon, Justin Vineyards and Winery [Paso Robles, California] 2006 35
LARGE FORMAT BOTTLES
981 Merlot, Keenan [Napa, California] 1.5 liter 2003 175
979 Isosceles, Justin Vineyards & Winery [Paso Robles, California] 1.5 liter 2005 300
Half Bottle and Large Format Selections – Red Wines
7/23/2009 5
Champagne
3 Salon Brut Blanc de Blancs, Cuvée S 1996 525
Champagne Salon produces only one wine, a vintage wine from Chardonnay grapes grown in the Grand
Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. If the harvest is not of the quality to produce a vintage wine, then no
Champagne Salon is made. This is one of only a few wineries in the world not to produce wine every year.
This exceptional dedication to quality can be tasted in every bottle.
2 Louis Roederer, Cristal 2002 475
13 Moët et Chandon, Dom Pérignon 1999 325
While Dom Pérignon did not invent Champagne, he did make important contributions to the development of
the wine we know today as Champagne. Moët et Chandon has created a namesake worthy of such an
important figure in the history of wine.
7 Deutz, Cuvée William Deutz 1996 295
12 Taittinger Brut Rosé, Comtes de Champagne 1999 299
6 Taittinger Brut Blanc de Blancs, Comtes de Champagne 1998 280
15 Bollinger, Grande Année 1999 175
“I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company, I
consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry, and I drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it,
unless I am thirsty.” — Lily Bollinger on Champagne. And, you should drink this one. After all, Bollinger was
James Bond’s favorite Champagne.
9 Veuve Clicquot Brut NV 125
14 Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV 91
380 Laurent-Perrier Demi-Sec NV 89
Demi-Sec is a sweeter style of Champagne that is lovely with fruit and lighter desserts (or on its own)! If you
have never tried this style of Champagne, you have missed a tasty treat that makes the meal complete.
Sparkling Wine
36 Ferrari Brut [Trentino, Italy] NV 77
Giulio Ferrari was the first to plant Chardonnay in Trentino. He believed that world-class sparkling wine,
made in the same method as Champagne (the process is known as metodo classico here), could be
produced in Italy. In addition to using the metodo classico, the grapes are hand-harvested, and the wine is
allowed to aged on the yeast for 24 months. This dry sparkling wine is equal to Brut Champagne in quality.
30 Trevisiol Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Extra Dry [Veneto, Italy] NV 49
386 Saracco Moscato d’Asti [Piedmont, Italy] 375ml 2007 39
34 Iron Horse, Wedding Cuvée [Green Valley, Sonoma, California] 2003 99
Barry and Audrey Sterling have built a legendary property with Iron Horse sparkling wine being served at
numerous White House dinners. This cuvée was created for daughter Joy Sterling’s wedding, but was so
popular that Iron Horse continues to make it.
35 Chandon Brut, Classic [California] NV 55
33 Scharffenberger Brut [California] NV 45
Sparkling wine from California that is made by the same method used to produce Champagne. Founded by
the man who later founded Scharffenberger Chocolate. Now owned by the the same company that has
Roederer Champagne.
37 Gruet Blanc de Noirs [New Mexico] NV 37
Yes, New Mexico! A wonderful example of sparkling white wine made from red grapes (that’s where the
“Blanc de Noirs” part originates). The Gruet family immigrated from Champagne, and makes sparkling wine
from the same grape types and in the same method as Champagne.Gruet makes excellent still wine from
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, as well. So, stop being so cosmopolitan and visit the vinous provinces. You
won’t be disappointed.
Champagne and Sparkling Wine
7/23/2009 6
An Entire Page Devoted to…DRY RIESLING!
Every wine, given enough time, will follow the up-and-down cycles of fashion. The “Riesling
Renaissance” of recent years is an excellent example of wine that was the height of
fashion, commanding astronomical prices, before plummeting to the depths of uncool,
then being rediscovered as the next hip thing. Considered by many sommeliers to be the
world’s greatest white wine grape, the renewed interest in Riesling is due in large part to
their (our?) proselytizing. From shockingly dry to lusciously sweet, these are the ultimate
white wines to match with food.
I cannot even begin to tell you how legendary each of these wine producers from Australia
is! That could easily occupy an entire book. Wine and Peace ? But, ask your server. They
will be happy to tell you the highlights.
216 Grosset, Polish Hill [Clare Valley, Australia] 2004 90
219 Grosset, Watervale [Clare Valley, Australia] 2004 61
208 Jasper Hill, Georgia’s Paddock [Heathcoate, Australia] 2005 85
217 Henschke, Julius [Eden Valley, Australia] 2004 70
205 Pewsey Vale [Eden Valley, Australia] 2008 45
207 Leeuwin Estate, Artist Series [Margaret River, Australia] 2005 65
Austrian Riesling strikes the balance between the delicacy and perfume of German
Riesling and the weight and minerality of Alsace Riesling. The best of both worlds (or
countries)!
221 Hirsch, Zöbing [Kamptal, Austria] 2005 53
224 Salomon Undhof, Noble Selection [Kremstal, Austria] 2005 83
223 Metternich & Salomon, Pfaffenberg Reserve [Kremstal, Austria] 2005 77
222 Nigl, Kremsleiten [Kremstal, Austria] 2005 73
Alsace is a wine geek’s (and geologist’s) treasure trove. The soils and aspects are
incredibly varied, producing a diverse range of grape types and styles.
213 Trimbach, Clos Ste. Hune [Alsace, France] 2000 237
Jancis Robinson, Master of Wine, compiled a book entitled Vintage Timelines that charted the maturity of
iconic wines over time. Trimbach Clos Ste. Hune was one of those wines. From the point of release, the line
slowly increased (meaning the wine is slow to develop), and increased, and increased, until it went off the
page (meaning the wine ages FOREVER). 4 out of 5 sommeliers agree that this is the world’s greatest dry
Riesling; and possibly the world’s greatest Riesling PERIOD.
214 Hugel, Jubilee [Alsace, France] 2004 105
But, this is no slouch, either! Jubilee is made from Grand Cru vineyards, though you won’t see that on the
label. Hugel doesn’t believe in the Grand Cru system, not as currently conceived. Too political? Well, that
debate could last all night.
225 Dme. Weinbach, Schlossberg Grand Cru [Alsace, France] 2005 89
From the Faller family: mother Colette, and daughters Catherine and Laurence. Their estate was
established by Capuchin monks in 1612, and this wine is from the first vineyard in Alsace to be designated
Grand Cru. (Keep reading, and you will find this blurb again for another wine in a different section. Both
wines are too good for me to choose only one to highlight.)
Yes, German! Yes, dry! Germany produces a larger percentage of dry wines than sweet
wines. So, get used to seeing this section, or an approximation thereof, on more wine lists.
206 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Ruppertsberger Gaisbohl G.C. Trocken [Pfalz, Germany] 2002 101
Trocken = Dry. Remember that for German wines. (Oh, except in the case of Trockenbeerenauslese which
is the sweetest of German wines. But, in that case the trocken describes the grapes, not the wine. They are
dried grapes…raisins.) The G.C. stands for Grand Cru because the owners of the winery found an old map
that showed their vineyard was Grand Cru at one time. The problem is that the term can no longer be used
on German wine labels. People could get in trouble. So, I never told you what it means, and you have to
keep the secret. Or, I cut off your supply of Riesling.)
204 Gunderloch, Dry [Rheinhessen, Germany] 2005 55
210 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Bürklin Estate [Pfalz, Germany] 2007 51
White Wines
7/23/2009 7
Wait, More Riesling!…But, in the (Slightly) Sweeter Styles
Off-Dry
202 Dönnhoff, Oberhäuser Leistenberg Kabinett [Nahe, Germany] 2005 63
215 Mönchhof, Ürzig Würzgarten Kabinett [Mosel, Germany] 2006 59
211 Mönchhof, Robert Eymael Estate [Mosel, Germany] 2007 53
200 Loosen Bros., Dr. L [Mosel, Germany] 2006 47
220 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler, Noble House [Mosel, Germany] 2007 31
212 Jim Clendenen, Skin & Bones [Santa Barbara, California] 2006 49
Semi-Sweet
203 Leitz, Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Spätlese [Rheingau, Germany] 2006 89
Grapefruit, Grass, and Limes…Sauvignon Blanc; Melon, Green Plums, and Fig…Semillon
Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon are complementary grapes. While they make great wines
on their own, they produce long-lived, often oak-aged, wines as blends in Bordeaux. Look
for Graves or Pessac-Léognan on the label for some of the best examples. France
produces another classic style of Sauvignon Blanc in the Loire Valley. Sancerre and Pouilly-
Fumé sit across the river from one another. They both make minerally, herbal, grapefruit
and lime-flavored, crisp wines, usually in an unoaked style. New Zealand shows another
style of Sauvignon Blanc with a grassy, red grapefruit nose and intense lime flavors. Tart
and lipsmacking good, this style is a modern classic originating only in the 1970′s and
1980′s. South Africa tends to make a similar style, but with a more herbal note. The
United States is a grab-bag of other styles. More or less fruit, more or less hebaceousness,
and more or less oak flavors are all possible.
152 Mulderbosch [Stellenbosch, South Africa] 2008 49
153 Thelema, Sutherland [South Africa] 2007 55
178 Sauvignon Republic [Marlborough, New Zealand] 2008 53
177 Villa Maria, Private Bin [Marlborough, New Zealand] 2008 35
164 Sancerre, Dme. André Neveu, Les Longues Fins [Loire, France] 2007 79
163 Sancerre, Vincent Delaporte, Chavignol [Loire, France] 2006 63
170 Y [Bordeaux, France] 2004 177
169 Domaine de Chevalier [Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France] 2003 150
168 Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte [Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France] 2004 110
188 Hanna, Slusser Road Vineyard [Russsian River, Sonoma, California] 2007 49
191 Araujo Estate Wines [Napa, California] 2007 87
194 Robert Mondavi Winery Fumé Blanc Reserve, To Kalon Vineyard [Napa, California] 2002 81
189 Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery [St. Helena, Napa, California] 2006 75
365 Duckhorn [Napa, California] 1.5 liter 2006 135
190 Slingshot [Napa, California] 2007 43
192 Semillon, L’Ecole No. 41 [Columbia Valley, Washington] 2007 47
7/23/2009 8
Grüner Veltliner… The Pool Table Wine
Several years ago, when Grüner Veltliner was not the household name that it is today
(Okay, I’m exaggerating, but I wish it were a household name. It DESERVES to be a
household name.), the servers could not remember the name of Austria’s most-planted
grape. We finally overcame this challenge when someone designated it the “Pool Table
Wine”…Green Feltliner (makes more sense if you know that “Grüner” means Green and “v”
is pronounced like “f” in German). This is seriously good wine capable of long aging. The
style is somewhere between a dry Riesling and a Sauvignon Blanc with a smidge of
Chardonnay or Pinot Gris texture thrown into the description for good measure. The wines
have a weight to them that most white wines cannot achieve without aging in oak barrels.
The stylistic and textural qualities without oak interference make these EXCELLENT food
wines.
317 Grüner Veltliner, Weingut Bründlmayer, Ried Loiser Berg [Kamptal, Austria] 2004 61
314 Grüner Veltliner, Leth [Wagram, Austria] 2007 57
316 Grüner Veltliner, Hirsch, Heiligenstein [Kamptal, Austria] 2005 51
The Gray Ghost…Pinot Gris and Grigio
Weimaraner is a breed of dog, also known as Gray Ghost. In American Kennel Club shows,
they must be noble and elegant, but capable of working in the field in order to be a
champion. Pinot Gris is the Gray Ghost of grapes, pinkish-gray in color (“gris” and “grigio”
both mean “gray”) rather than a true white grape. Like the Weimaraner, Pinot Gris should
be noble (and is considered one of the “noble grapes” of Alsace, France) yet capable of
serious work (as in the heavy lifting done by so many Italian Pinot Grigios). This is a grape
that makes different styles of wine depending upon where the grape is grown, yet retains
quality (which is another hallmark of a “noble” grape). In Italy, the wine is tangy, fruity, and
light-bodied with a slight “amaro”, or bitter, finish. In Alsace, the wine is often big, rich, and
viscous. Oregon strikes a balance between the two (though both styles can be found there)
by retaining the freshness of Italy and the texture of Alsace. All are food-friendly and tasty!
230 Pinot Gris, King Estate [Oregon] 2007 53
228 Pinot Grigio, Scarpetta [delle Venezie, Italy] 2008 55
237 Pinot Grigio, Angelini [Veneto, Italy] 2006 45
234 Pinot Gris, Villa Wolf [Pfalz, Germany] 2007 37
235 Pinot Gris, Rieflé, Bonheur Convivial [Alsace, France] 2005 59
233 Pinot Gris, Dme. Weinbach, Cuvée Ste. Catherine [Alsace, France] 2005 99
From the Faller family: mother Colette, and daughters Catherine and Laurence. Their estate was
established by Capuchin monks in 1612. Yes, 1612! And, this wine is from the first vineyard in Alsace to be
designated Grand Cru. Talk about a pedigree!
236 Pinot d’Alsace, Zind-Humbrecht [Alsace, France] 2006 65
Not strictly a Pinot Gris, Pinot d’Alsace can be made from any of the Pinot family of grapes and is usually a
blend. These grapes include: Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Auxerrois
And the Cousin…Pinot Blanc
Pinot Blanc is a white variation of Pinot Noir. All of the Pinot family are related, due to
Pinot Noir’s propensity to mutate.
229 Pinot Blanc, Dme. Marcel Deiss, Bergheim [Alsace, France] 2004 57
239 Pinot Bianco, Alois Lageder [Dolomiti, Italy] 2007 41
7/23/2009 9
You Know It, You Love It, and There’s No Need to Describe It…New World Chardonnay
90 Neil Ellis [Stellenbosch, South Africa] 2008 59
78 Giaconda, Estate Vineyard [Victoria, Australia] 2004 185
79 Giaconda, Nantua les Deux [Victoria, Australia] 2003 85
80 Cullen [Margaret River, Australia] 2002 101
77 Leeuwin Estate, Prelude Vineyard [Margaret River, Australia] 2006 89
76 By Farr [Geelong, Australia] 2002 93
82 D’Arenberg, The Olive Grove [McLaren Vale, Australia] 2006 49
146 Sharpe Hill, American Barrel Fermented [Connecticut] 2007 45
Can’t resist, just have to say something about this wine. It is from Connecticut, and it is GOOD! American
oak barrels usually add very aggressive flavors to wine, but the folks at Sharpe Hill worked some magic and
made a well-balanced wine.
144 Gruet [New Mexico] 2006 41
116 Radio-Coteau, Savoy [Anderson Valley, California] 2006 120
125 Peter Michael, Belle Côte [Sonoma, California] 2006 160
107 Littorai, Charles Heintz Vineyard [Sonoma Coast, California] 2006 135
101 Littorai, Mays Canyon [Russian River, Sonoma, California] 2006 127
119 Flowers [Sonoma Coast, California] 2006 91
362 Jordan [Russian River, Sonoma, California] 1.5 liter 2003 140
124 Jordan [Russian River, Sonoma, California] 2006 75
105 Gundlach Bundschu [Sonoma, California] 2005 73
106 Simi [Sonoma, California] 2007 59
126 Sonoma Cutrer, Russian River Ranches [Sonoma, California] 2007 55
123 Buehler Vineyards [Russian River, Sonoma, California] 2008 49
111 Hanna [Russian River, Sonoma, California] 2005 45
114 Ceja [Carneros, California] 2006 71
115 Grgich Hills [Napa, California] 2006 95
122 Chateau Montelena [Napa, California] 2007 83
100 Trefethen [Napa, California] 2006 75
121 Landmark, Overlook [Sonoma/Santa Barbara/Monterey, California] 2006 69
139 Mer Soleil, Barrel Fermented [Central Coast, California] 2006 85
127 Au Bon Climat, Nuits-Blanches au Bouge [Santa Maria Valley, California] 2003 95
133 Sanford [Santa Barbara County, California] 2006 63
143 Justin Vineyards & Winery [Paso Robles, California] 2007 55
7/23/2009 10
Saving the Trees!…One Bottle of Unoaked Chardonnay at a Time
53 Yalumba, Y Series – Unwooded [South Australia] 2008 41
130 Luli [Santa Lucia Highlands, California] 2007 49
53 Chablis, Vincent Dauvissat, Grand Cru Les Clos 2006 175
62 Chablis, Vincent Dauvissat, 1er Cru Vaillons 2007 107
55 Chablis, Jean-Marc Brocard, Domaine Sainte Claire 2007 79
71 Vire-Clessé, Maison Chanson 2005 45
From the Home of Chardonnay…White Burgundy (and a Few Neighbors)
50 Bourgogne, Domaine Amiot Guy et Fils 2005 57
59 Nuits-St.-Georges, Domaine Henri Gouges, 1er Cru La Perriere 2004 165
56 Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Vincent Girardin, Grand Cru 2004 250
364 Meursault, Domaine Rémi Jobard, 1er Cru les Genevrières 1.5 liter 2004 285
63 Meursault, François Mikulski, 1er Cru Poruzots 2004 160
48 Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine de Montille, 1er Cru Le Cailleret 2004 225
52 Puligny-Montrachet, Robert Ampeau, 1er Cru Combettes 1985 275
58 Puligny-Montrachet, Robert Ampeau, 1er Cru Combettes 1995 200
54 Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot 2007 125
65 Chassagne-Montrachet, Bernard Moreau et Fils, 1er Cru Champs Gain 2005 115
64 Chassagne-Montrachet, Château de la Maltroye 2006 125
274 Querciabella, Batàr [Tuscany, Italy] 2004 125
Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc
White Rhone Valley Wines and Rhone-Style Blends
251 Hermitage, Dme. Jean-Louis Chave [Rhône, France] 2005 395
Jean-Louis Chave, Master of Northern Rhone winemaking, guru of Hermitage, and a living legend. When
he goes home, he never leaves the vineyards because his house is built on the Hermitage hill. The
domaine was founded in 1481 and has passed from father to son for a half millenium. This combination of
dedication and experience helps him create a delicious, ageworthy blend of Marsanne and Roussanne.
254 Hermitage, Betts & Scholl [Rhône, France] 2001 125
From Richard Betts MS, sommelier extraordinaire (He’s one of only 13 people to pass the Master
Sommelier exam on the first try, EVER!), and Dennis Scholl, modern art collector. We won’t charge you just
to look at the labels on the Betts & Scholl wines (and they are pretty cool), but do suggest that you try these
amazing wines soon.
255 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Le Vieux Donjon [Rhône, France] 2007 125
295 Marsanne/Viognier, D’Arenberg, The Hermit Crab [Australia] 2006 51
Stick with me on this one, because it’s convoluted. Chester Osbourne, whose family owns D’Arenberg, is
the winemaker and chief namer of wines. His reasoning for this one goes as follows: Marsanne and
Viognier both originate in the Rhone Valley. Marsanne is a white grape that is used to make both white
Hermitage and to blend with Syrah to make red Hermitage. Like a hermit crab taking up residence in a new
home, these two grapes traveled to Australia. And, the “Hermit” portion of the name pays homage to the
Hermitage (home of hermit) hill in the Rhone Valley. The Marsanne adds weight and minerality to the wine,
while the Viognier adds aromatics and stone fruit flavors.
284 Treana, Mer Soleil Vineyard [Central Coast, California] 2007 69
Viognier and Marsanne
301 Atrea, The Choir [Mendocino, California] 2007 53
Roussanne and Viognier
288 Viognier, Zaca Mesa [Santa Ynez Valley, California] 2006 51
285 Viognier, McPherson [Texas] 2006 49
7/23/2009 11
Tasty Treats from Around the World…Starting in France
256 Gewurztraminer, Trimbach [Alsace, France] 2004 51
Litchi nuts and roses; spicy and fruity; perfumed and dry….These are but a few of the adjectives used to
describe great Gewurztraminer. (Yes, it is spelled correctly. No umlaut over the “u” because we are in
France here.) And, Trimbach makes a GREAT Gewurztraminer.
258 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, Louis Métaireau [Loire, France] 2006 47
Seafood! No, not in the wine; with the wine. But, you might find some of that sea breeze, iodine note in this
wine. The light body, crisp acidity, and mellow flavors allow seafood to shine. This wine is from the coast of
Brittany in the Pays Nantais, the home of Breton oysters (not Cape Breton oysters; those are from Nova
Scotia) and the provider of mussels and fish of many types. This fact leads to an important food and wine
matching principle: what grows up together; often goes together.
252 Savennières, Nicolas Joly, Les Clos Sacrés [Loire Valley, France] 2006 97
259 Savennières, Soulez, Château de Chamboureau [Loire, France] 2004 55
Tasty Treats from Around the World…France’s Friends, Neighbors, and Occasional Adversaries
303 Albariño, Martin Codax [Condado do Tea, Rias Baixas, Spain] 2006 45
302 Albariño, Pazo de Señorans [Rias Baixas, Spain] 2006 57
Albarino, a modern classic from northwestern Spain (for the geographically challenged that’s a small area
bounded by Portugal in the south, the Atlantic Ocean in the west, the Bay of Biscay in the north, and the
meseta of Spain in the east) that gives peachy and citrusy, light-bodied wine, usually without oak influence.
These are some of the most expensive grapes in Spain due to the difficult growing conditions. This isn’t the
“Don Quixote-tilting-at-windmills-on-the-plains-of-La-Mancha” Spain. This is humid and green, Celticinfluenced,
bagpipe-playing Spain. The humidity makes grape-growing challenging, but the results are as
enchanting as the region.
304 Getaria, Txomín Etxaníz [Getariako Txakolina, Spain] 2006 55
306 Verdejo, Naia [Rueda, Spain] 2007 43
306 Viña Godeval [Valdeorras, Spain] 2007 51
318 Muskateller Kabinett Trocken, Darting [Pfalz, Germany] 2005 43
It’s Muscat! Yes, the grape of Alsace, Beaumes-de-Venise, Asti, and countless other regions. But, dry and
minerally. Smells sweet, though, so be careful. Tricks your brain like a Las Vegas hypnotist. Try it with
salads and seafood, especially ones with fruit.
315 Silvaner Trocken, Schloss Castell [Franken, Germany] 2005 47
This wine comes in a special bottle, called a bocksbeutel, that can only be used in a few specified areas of
Europe. Two different claims exist about the origin of the bottle name. One is that the term originates in the
name of a small satchel for carrying books. The other is that the bottle resembles (I’m not making this up) a
goat’s purse, which is an appropriate euphamism for a Four Seasons wine list. One certainty is that the
wine is a an excellent aperitif, appetizer, or light entrée wine. The flavors resemble a mellower version of
Sauvignon Blanc.
278 Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Tenuta Mormoraia [Tuscany, Italy] 2006 43
280 Santorini, Dme. Sigalas [Greece] 2006 51
First, Santorini is an island off the coast of Greece, which gives it a nice Mediterranean climate. An
excellent climate for growing grapes. Second, Santorini is a volcano. Well, technically it is the remnants of a
volcano that exploded circa 1650 BC, and covered the island in ash, lava, and pumice. Excellent soil for
growing grapes. Third, the grape is one you might not know: Assyrtiko. This grape makes dry, crisp, fullbodied,
unoaked, minerally, smoky, citrusy wine. (For all of the English teachers, I realize that is about six
adjectives too long, but the wine is really that complex!) Think Mediterranean, think seafood, think pasta,
think fresh vegetables; then, order dinner to accompany this wine.
Tasty Treats from Around the World…Thanks to the Great Discoverers of the New World
290 Chenin Blanc, Raats Family Wines, Original [Coastal Region, South Africa] 2005 41
286 Palomino (75%)-Chardonnay (25%), Inwood Estates Vineyards [Texas] 2006 65
Texas wine from Texas, which is not as silly as it sounds. Some Texas wineries use fruit from California, or
New Mexico, to make their wines. (Yes, it’s true. Sad, but true.) Dan Gatlin of Inwood Estates Vineyards
uses only Texas fruit to make his wines. His tag line is “25 years of research in 5 vineyards across 460
miles of Texas with 30 grape varieties.” The result is a blend of the grape that makes the highest quality
Sherry (that’s the Palomino part) and the grape that makes the most expensive white wine in the world
(that’s the Chardonnay part; and the most expensive white wine is Montrachet from Burgundy). Yummy?
You bet!
7/23/2009 12
Saké!!!
Nancy Nichols, restaurant reviewer for D Magazine , requested that I send her a few of my
favorites from the list. Here is the response regarding saké, which she posted June 26th,
2009, on Sidedish, D Magazine’s food blog: “Ahhh. Fruity, with grain and mineral notes;
restrained, with hidden layers; refreshing, with a tangy finish. This is an amazing beverage
for food, especially during the summer. Why don’t more people drink sake? (That’s a
rhetorical question, but feel free to misinterpret it.)”
‘Nuff said
Junmai
373 Tozai, Living Jewel [Kyoto Prefecture, Japan] 27
Junmai Ginjo
371 Rihaku, Wandering Poet [Shimane Prefecture, Japan] 41
370 Meibo Yowano Tsuki, Midnight Moon [Aichi Prefecture, Japan] 45
372 Sato No Homare, Pride of the Village [Ibaraki Prefecture, Japan] 51
7/23/2009 13
Red Burgundy
659 Bourgogne, Méo-Camuzet Frère et Soeurs 2006 75
631 Marsannay, Dme. Charles Audoin, Les Longeroies 2005 95
630 Latricières-Chambertin, Dme. Trapet Père & Fils, Grand Cru 1998 165
626 Gevrey-Chambertin, Dme. Bruno Clair, 1er Cru Cazetiers 2005 199
638 Clos de la Roche, Dme. Armand Rousseau, Grand Cru 2004 245
637 Bonnes-Mares, Dominique Laurent, Grand Cru 1999 375
627 Richebourg, Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Grand Cru 2006 775
633 Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Grand Cru 2006 550
628 Romanée-St.-Vivant, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Grand Cru 2003 1200
640 Vosne-Romanée, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1er Cru Cuvée Duvault-Blochet 2006 425
634 Vosne-Romanée, Domaine Méo-Camuzet, 1er Cru Les Brulées 2006 395
632 Vosne-Romanée, Domaine Bertagna, 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts 2005 195
639 Nuits-St.-Georges, Dme. Henri Gouges, 1er Cru Les Chenes Carteaux 2004 117
653 Corton-Les Renardes, Thibault Liger-Belair, Grand Cru 2005 185
652 Volnay, Robert Ampeau, 1er Cru Santenots 1990 215
660 Volnay, Dme. Nicolas Rossignol, 1er Cru Ronceret 2005 157
Pinot Noir
680 Hugel, Jubilee [Alsace, France] 2005 81
678 Cono Sur, Vision [Colchagua, Chile] 2008 47
683 Giaconda [Victoria, Australia] 2005 183
684 Bindi, Composition [Macedon Ranges, Australia] 2006 105
682 Innocent Bystander [Yarra Valley, Australia] 2008 63
675 Pencarrow [Martinborough, New Zealand] 2006 57
677 Boulder Bank [Marlborough, New Zealand 2006 63
681 Blind Trail [Central Otago, New Zealand] 2007 71
697 Beaux Frères, The Upper Terrace [Willamette, Oregon] 2006 185
690 Beaux Frères, Beaux Frères Vineyard [Willamette, Oregon] 2007 165
695 Chehalem, 3 Vineyard [Willamette, Oregon] 2006 71
693 Adelsheim [Willamette, Oregon] 2007 65
687 King Estate, Signature Collection [Oregon] 2007 55
703 Relic, Alder Springs Vineyard [Mendocino County, California] 2006 117
721 Littorai, Les Larmes [Anderson Valley, California] 2006 127
704 Copain, Hacienda Secoya [Anderson Valley, California] 2006 101
719 Kosta Browne [Sonoma Coast, California] 2006 155
689 Radio-Coteau, La Neblina [Sonoma Coast, California] 2006 125
712 Roessler, La Brisa – Peay Vineyard [Sonoma Coast, California] 2004 101
699 Belle Glos, Meiomi [Sonoma Coast, California] 2006 67
709 Williams Selyem [Russian River, Sonoma, California] 2006 225
698 Walter Hansell, Cahill Lane Vineyard [Russian River, Sonoma, California] 2006 103
720 Ceja [Carneros, California] 2005 89
716 Au Bon Climat, La Bauge Au-dessus [Santa Maria Valley, California] 2006 83
723 Morgan, Twelve Clones [Santa Lucia Highlands, California] 2006 87
708 Kenneth-Crawford, Turner Vineyard [Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara, California] 2007 83
722 Brewer-Clifton [Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara, California] 2007 81
705 Melville, Estate [Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara, California] 2007 69
Red Wines
7/23/2009 14
Bordeaux
588 Château Calon-Segur, Third Growth [St. Estephe] 2005 210
594 Château Mouton-Rothschild, First Growth [Pauillac] 1986 1500
584 Château Lafite-Rothschild, First Growth [Pauillac] 1990 900
591 Château Lynch-Bages, Fifth Growth [Pauillac] 2005 225
587 Château Branaire-Ducru, Fourth Growth [St. Julien] 2006 180
586 Château Boyd-Cantenac, Third Growth [Margaux] 2005 125
583 Château Haut-Brion, First Growth [Pessac-Léognan] 1990 1100
589 Château La Louviere [Pessac-Léognan] 2005 125
593 Clos Fourtet [St. Emilion] 2004 195
590 Clos de L’Oratoire [St. Emilion] 1999 75
595 Château Potensac [Médoc] 1996 135
592 Château Haut Bessac [Bordeaux Supérieur] 2005 45
Merlot and Merlot Blends
569 Millsreef, Elspeth One [Hawkes Bay, New Zealand] 2002 87
513 Waters, Interlude [Walla Walla, Washington] 2007 77
527 Powers [Columbia Valley, Washington] 2007 47
551 Red Diamond [Washington] 2005 41
533 Lambert Bridge [Sonoma County, California] 2002 45
550 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Canoe Ridge Vineyard [Columbia, Washington] 2005 65
981 Keenan [Napa, California] 1.5 liter 2003 175
532 Keenan [Napa, California] 2005 89
538 Chappellet [Napa, California] 2006 85
539 Havens [Napa, California] 2005 81
525 Swanson [Napa, California] 2005 79
526 Trefethen, Estate Grown [Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley, California] 2005 69
529 Franciscan [Napa California] 2005 63
7/23/2009 15
ABC…All Beautiful Cabernets from the United States
511 Quilceda Creek [Washington] 2006 299
520 Pepper Bridge [Walla Walla, Washington] 2004 150
517 Amavi [Walla Walla, Washington] 2006 71
514 Avila [Santa Barbara, California] 2004 39
524 Hayes Ranch [California] 2006 43
521 Villa Mt. Eden [California] 2000 45
508 Mettler Family Vineyards, Estate Grown [Lodi, California] 2006 67
468 Barbour Vineyards [Napa, California] 2005 265
463 Araujo Estate, Eisele Vineyard [Napa, California] 2005 350
475 Araujo Estate, Altagracia [Napa, California] 2004 175
480 Egelhoff [Napa, California] 2004 160
457 Vineyard 29, Cru [St. Helena, Napa, California] 2006 145
479 Cabernet Franc, Crocker & Starr [St. Helena, Napa, California] 2005 125
469 Ehlers Estate [Napa, California] 2005 105
456 Terra Valentine [Spring Mountain District, Napa, California] 2005 101
474 Clos du Val [Napa, California] 2005 99
453 Ladera [Napa, California] 2005 87
470 Vinifera Vineyards [Napa, California] 2005 79
466 Tamber Bey [Yountville, Napa, California] 2006 71
478 Charles Krug [Yountville, Napa, California] 2006 69
485 Buehler Vineyards [Napa, California] 2006 67
492 Silver Oak [Alexander Valley, Sonoma, California] 2004 155
494 Jordan [Sonoma, California] 2005 115
489 Roth [Alexander Valley, Sonoma, California] 2005 95
497 Alexander Valley Vineyards [Alexander Valley, Sonoma, California] 2006 55
505 Geyser Peak [Alexander Valley, Sonoma, California] 2005 43
459 75 Wine Company, Amber Knolls Vineyard [Red Hills, Lake County, California] 2005 67
7/23/2009 16
Cabernet Blends – United States
979 Justin Vineyards & Winery, Isosceles [Paso Robles, California] 1.5 liter 2005 300
452 Colgin, IX Estate [Napa, California] 2005 750
472 Continuum [Oakville, Napa, California] 2005 225
477 Cain Five [Napa, California] 2004 205
486 Jones Family Vineyards, The Sisters [Napa, California] 2005 109
465 Sage Vineyards, Veedercrest [Napa, California] 2005 91
Worldly Wines…Cabernet and Cabernet Blends Outside The US
425 Rustenberg, John X Merriman [Stellenbosch, South Africa] 2005 65
515 Miguel Torres, Manso de Velasco [Curico, Chile] 2004 75
415 Casa Lapostolle, Cuvée Alexandre – Apalta Vineyard [Colchagua, Chile] 2006 65
417 Andeluna [Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina] 2007 51
402 Penley Estate, Reserve [Coonawarra, Australia] 2004 125
403 Cullen, Diana Madeline [Margaret River, Australia] 2002 125
From Diana Cullen, one of the biggest promoters of Biodynamic grapegrowing and winemaking.
Biodynamics is even stricter than organic, which makes this the most natural winemaking available.
404 Jim Barry, The Cover Drive [South Australia] 2005 57
7/23/2009 17
Southern Rhône/Grenache
767 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Henri Bonneau, Réserve des Célestins [Rhône Valley, France] 2000 420
766 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Château de Beaucastel [Rhône Valley, France] 2005 175
768 Côtes-du-Rhône Villages, Perrin & Fils [Rhône Valley, France] 2006 45
764 Côtes-du-Rhône, Jean-Luc Colombo, Les Abeilles [Rhône Valley, France] 2005 37
862 Grenache, Betts & Scholl [Barossa, Australia] 2004 61
Northern Rhône/Syrah/Shiraz
Wine catalogs from the 19th century advertise Bordeaux châteaux, and then the same
châteaux with Hermitage behind the name. This refers to the practice of fortifying
Bordeaux with Syrah from the Rhone Valley’s Hermitage (a practice that is illegal today),
demonstrating the high regard in which Syrah-based wines were held. Max Schubert’s
covert experiments in the 1950′s, which yielded Penfold’s Grange, put Australia on the
map as a world-class producer of Syrah (known as Shiraz in Australia). Now, acclaimed
Syrah wines are being produced in Washington state and many other areas. Yet, many
people are unaware of this grape’s spicy, berry-scented attractions.
757 Côte Rôtie, E. Guigal, La Mouline [Rhône Valley, France] 2003 600
755 Côte Rôtie, Rostaing, Côte Blonde [Rhône Valley, France] 2004 215
769 Côte Rôtie, Ogier [Rhône Valley, France] 2003 165
758 Cornas, Dme. Clape [Rhône Valley, France] 2005 180
761 Hermitage, Chave [Rhône Valley, France] 2002 350
760 Hermitage, Paul Jaboulet Aîné, La Chapelle [Rhône Valley, France] 1999 195
759 Hermitage, Betts & Scholl [Rhône Valley, France] 2001 150
754 Crozes-Hermitage, Gilles Robin, Papillon [Rhone Valley, France] 2005 85
749 Syrah, Gramercy Cellars, Lagniappe [Columbia Valley, Washington] 2005 95
728 Syrah, Gramercy Cellars [Walla Walla, Washington] 2005 81
Gramercy Cellars is the realization of a dream by Master Sommelier Greg Harrington. After running the wine
programs for such well-known names as Emeril Lagasse and Wolfgang Puck, Greg moved from New York
to Walla Walla in order to start a winery. His wines have what every sommelier wants in wine: intense flavor
but with refined tannins and a core of acidity that keeps the wines fresh and food-friendly.
748 Syrah, Saracina [Mendocino, California] 2004 65
An excellent example of Syrah from the Central Coast of California. This wine is medium-bodied, blackberry
and raspberry flavored with smoke and black pepper spice.
732 Shiraz, Giaconda, Warner Vineyard [Victoria, Australia] 2005 183
726 Shiraz, Mitolo, Jester [McLaren Vale, Australia] 2006 63
739 Shiraz, D’Arenberg, Footbolt [McLaren Vale, Australia] 2005 53
7/23/2009 18
We Interrupt This Program to Bring You…
Henschke and Jasper Hill, Which Should Be in the Shiraz Category…
but are such amazing, benchmark wineries that they are being given their own category.
There are other wineries in Australia that deserve this treatment (a couple are listed on the
previous page), but Henschke and Jasper Hill win the recognition with the perennial quality
and iconic status of their wines. Henschke’s Hill of Grace ranks alongside Penfold’s Grange
for many people as Australia’s greatest Shiraz. The vineyard from which the wine gets its
name has vines planted on their own roots (unusual due to a grape pest), and the oldest
vines were planted in the 1860′s. Mount Edelstone has a reputation that would place it at
the forefront of other wineries, originating from the Mount Edelsone vineyard’s 90-year-old
vines. Jasper Hill is one of the few wineries that can claim to have created a wine region.
When the Laughton’s arrived, the Heathcoate wine region did not exist. Now, over 70
wineries are located there. Emily and Georgia are the daughters of founder of Ron
Laughton. Emily is now the winemaker.
740 Shiraz, Henschke, Hill of Grace [Eden Valley, Australia] 2004 800
747 Shiraz, Henschke, Hill of Grace [Eden Valley, Australia] 2002 725
729 Shiraz, Henschke, Mount Edelstone [Eden Valley, Australia] 2004 175
736 Shiraz/Cabernet Franc, Jasper Hill, Emily’s Paddock [Heathcoate, Australia] 2000 299
733 Shiraz, Jasper Hill, Georgia’s Paddock [Heathcoate, Australia] 2002 175
Château Musar
Château Musar deserves a category unto itself. The winery was created in 1930 by Gaston
Hochar. His son, Serge, assumed winemaking duties in 1959. The vineyards are located at
over 3,000 feet in the Bekaa Valley of Lebanon. Yields are restricted to 35 hl/ha (which
probably means nothing, unless you know that this is the maximum yield for Grand Cru
Burgundy, and very small yields are associated with quality). But Serge confronts
winemaking in extremes that other winemakers cannot contemplate. The Lebanese civil
war ravaged the Bekaa Valley. Serge had to be smuggled by boat to harvest the grapes in
1983. Many years, the grapes were trucked to the winery through armed checkpoints. The
winery was bombed, and served as a shelter for villagers. In 1995, hearing from contacts
that the war would escalate within days, Serge harvested the grapes two weeks early. This
yielded a different style of wine, but one that might not have been made at all since the
war did escalate as predicted. For his dedication and exceptional winemaking, Serge was
named Decanter Magazine’s inaugural “Man of the Year”.
410 Château Musar [Bekaa Valley, Lebanon] 1995 150
412 Château Musar [Bekaa Valley, Lebanon] 2000 99
Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, and Cinsaut
861 Hochar Père et Fils, Château Musar [Bekaa Valley, Lebanon] 2001 55
Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Cinsaut, and Grenache
Bella Italia…Three Great Italian Wines
Each of these northern Italian wines makes a convincing case for Italy’s use of Bordeaux
grapes. Maurizio Zanella founded Ca’ del Bosco in 1968 with a mission of distinguishing
the region of Franciacorta. So, why isn’t the wine known as Franciacorta? Because to use
that designation, the wine must be sparkling. Hence, this iconic and eponymous wine from
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc is labeled as an IGT wine. It should be
labeled, “Delicious Alt-Bordeux.” Inama’s Oracolo is 100% single-vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon from the original home of Cabernet Sauvignon in Italy. The 2003 vintage
produced a concentrated, structured wine more in keeping with New World examples than
Bordeaux. Inama Più (which means “more”) is more than Carmenere (60%), with Merlot
(30%) and Raboso Veronese (10%) adding to the blend. Carmenere was grown in
Bordeaux, transplanted to Chile, and returned to Bordeaux; a well-traveled grape that
seems to have found a new home in the Veneto. More soy and cocoa than Cabernet
Sauvignon, and well-structured, this wine has an affinity for food.
786 Maurizio Zanella, Ca’ del Bosco [Rosso del Sebino IGT, Lombardy, Italy] 1997 135
7/23/2009 19
781 Oracolo, Inama [Veneto IGT, Italy] 2003 120
853 Carmenere, Inama, Più [Veneto IGT, Italy] 2006 55
7/23/2009 20
We Now Return to Our Regular Programming…
Italian Reds
777 Barolo DOCG, Aldo Conterno, Bussia [Piedmont] 2001 175
780 Barolo DOCG, Fontanafredda, Serralunga d’Alba [Piedmont] 2004 120
784 Barbaresco DOCG, Tre Donne [Piedmont] 2004 135
How good is this wine? Good enough that a description was debatable. Much like the great restaurant that
no one knows, and that you consider before sharing lest you can no longer get a table, this is the wine that
you want to share but don’t want to share too much.This is hand-harvested Nebbiolo from a family-owned
winery and is capable of LONG aging. However, don’t be afraid to try this gem now. The cranberry, currant,
potpourri, tea, and mushroom flavors are irresistible.
801 Barbaresco DOCG, Produttori del Barbaresco [Piedmont] 2005 69
This wine is from a co-operative. If you are still reading then congratulations, you are about to get a bargain.
While most co-operatives are known for producing mediocre wine, Produttori del Barbaresco delivers spoton,
astounding examples of Barbaresco. This is their basic wine, and it’s a winner. Possibly the best quality
for price ratio on this list.
805 Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG, Nino Negri, Sfursat 5 Stelle [Lombardy] 2004 150
Appropriate that this wine is located between the Nebbiolo wines of Piedmont above and the dried-grape
wines of Amarone della Valpolicella below. Why? Because Sforzato di Valtellina is made from Nebbiolo
grapes that are dried after harvest like Amarone. This produces a light-colored (Nebbiolo is a deceptively
light-colored grape) wine with the punch and power of Nebbiolo, but with the added kick that derives from
drying and concentrating the grapes. Don’t let the color fool you, this wine has substance to spare.
791 Amarone della Valpolicella DOC, Romano dal Forno [Veneto] 1999 700
798 Valpolicella Classico Ripasso DOC, Giuseppe Lonardi [Veneto] 2004 65
795 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG, Soldera [Tuscany] 1998 485
This is a value. At $485? YES! At almost any price. This is a mind-blowing wine; impossibly well-balanced
between power and elegance. The grape is Sangiovese, but with a refinement and power that places it
amongst the great and luxurious icons of the world. Try it, soon. It won’t last long, and that’s not because it
is any danger of going “over the hill” (it might never).
803 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, Sanguineti [Tuscany] 2005 89
If you like Chianti, then you are going to LOVE this wine. Made from Prugnolo Gentile, a clone (natural, not
gentically modified) of Sangiovese, the same grape used in Chianti. The wine has pretty cherry and plum
flavors with tea and orange rind notes, yet retains the tannins and acidity for which Sangiovese is known.
Pretty and powerful, what more could one want?
799 Chianti Classico DOCG, Felsina, Berardenga [Tuscany] 2006 61
808 Chianti Classico DOCG, Borgo Scopeto [Tuscany] 2006 55
785 Toscana IGT, Mazzei, Poggio Alla Badiola [Tuscany] 2005 47
Spanish Reds
844 Unico, Vega Sicilia [Ribera del Duero] 1996 575
826 Artadi, Pagos Viejos [Rioja] 2005 185
835 La Cueva del Contador [Rioja] 2005 175
842 Torre Muga [Rioja] 2004 165
Bodegas Muga is located in two centuries old facilities in Haro, the town at the heart of the Rioja Alta region
of Rioja. This area is known for producing exceptional Tempranillo, the essence of Rioja wine. Garnacha
(Grenache) and Mazuelo (Carignan) complete the blend. Like many Spanish wines, Muga raises their wines
in oak. However, the variety of oak is noteworthy. The 14,000 barrels in the winery are composed of
French, American, Hungarian, Russian, and a small amount of Spanish oak. Muga certainly has the right
combination, because the wines are coveted for their high quality.
830 Remirez de Ganuza, Old Vines – Unfiltered [Rioja] 2002 150
843 Clos Erasmus [Priorat] 2005 265
834 Veraton, Alto Moncayo [Camp de Borja] 2005 75
840 Mencia, Tilenus, Pagos de Posada [Bierzo] 2000 75
This wine is made from the Mencia grape. When young, this wine seemed much like a Cabernet Franc
wine. With a touch of age, the wine seemed more like a Pinot Noir wine. With more age, the wine seems
JUST RIGHT. Imagine this wine as a mature boxer that uses finesse while retaining power. In the words of
The Greatest, “Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee.”
832 Mustiguillo, Finca Terrerazo [Vino de la Tierra el Terrerazo] 2004 71
7/23/2009 21
Tasty Reds From Around the World
860 Touriga Nacional, Quinta do Crasto [Douro, Portugal] 2004 140
860 Portal Grande Reserva [Douro, Portugal] 2006 140
854 Malbec, Tahuan, Ernesto Catena Selection [Mendoza, Argentina] 2005 55
856 Malbec, Doña Paula, Estate [Mendoza, Argentina] 2005 45
858 Château Bellevue sur Vallée [Provence, France] 2003 59
857 Le Stele, Mas de la Dame [Provence, France] 2003 59
674 Morgon, Georges Deboeuf, Jean Descombes [Beaujolais, France] 2006 41
902 Sangiovese, McPherson, Sagmor [Texas] 2006 37
910 Pleiades XV, Sean Thackrey, Old Vines [California] NV 65
907 Zinfandel, Martinelli, Giuseppe & Luisa [Russian River, Sonoma, California] 2006 115
903 Zinfandel, Grgich Hills [Napa, California] 2006 95
906 Zinfandel, Seghesio, Old Vine [Sonoma, California] 2007 81
901 Zinfandel, Four Vines, Old Vines Cuvee [California] 2006 41
7/23/2009 22
The Great American Drink…Madeira! 2 oz. Bottle
The wine of the Founding Fathers has now faded into near-obscurity. However, America
was the largest importer of Madeira during the Colonial era. Savannah and Charleston
were major ports, and bottles still exist that are labeled with only the name of the ship and
the year in which the shipment arrived. The wine comes in a variety of sweetness levels, so
there is something for everyone. The wines are labeled with the name of the grape type
used, which gives an indication of the style of the wine. Sercial is the driest version,
progressing through Verdelho and Boal (or Bual) to Malmsey (or Malvasia), the sweetest
version. The ultimate expression of Madeira is a vintage wine, which can be found back to
the 19th century. The wines are spectacular and surprisingly affordable considering their
age. So, indulge yourself with a glass of delicious wine from the early days of our country.
990 The Rare Wine Co., Malmsey Special Reserve [Portugal] NV 13 97
This wine has enticing aromas of butterscotch, hazelnuts, plum, citrus zest and dried cherries. The wine is
sweet and full with a tangy sea breeze quality and refreshing acidity to balance the rich flavors. The
combination of warming and refreshing makes this a perfect after-dinner accompaniment to cheese and
nuts.
995 Barbeito, Malvasia, Reserva Velha [Portugal] 1954 41 390
997 D’Oliveiras, Terrantez, Reserva [Portugal] 1977 25 199
998 D’Oliveiras, Bual, Reserva [Portugal] 1908 59 599
993 Barbeito, Bual, Reserva Velha [Portugal] 1912 37 375
999 D’Oliveiras, Sercial, Reserva [Portugal] 1969 29 269
Porto 2 oz. Bottle
Graham’s, 10 year-old Tawny 12 95
Cockburn’s, 20 year-old Tawny 18 140
Fonseca, Bin No. 27 7.5 50
Sandeman’s, Vau Vintage 375 ml 1997 21 90
Sherry
389 Emilio Lustau, Light Manzanilla, Papirusa [Jerez, Spain] NV 7 45
399 Emilio Lustau, Dry Amontillado, Los Arcos [Jerez, Spain] NV 7 45
Other Fortified Wines
396 Muscadelle, Chambers [Rutherglen, Australia] 375 ml NV 9 39
393 Banyuls, Dme. Du Mas Blanc (Dr. Parcé), Rimage [France] 2004 15 107
383 Framboise, Bonny Doon [California] 375 ml NV 8 35
Fortified Wines
7/23/2009 23
2 oz. Bottle
376 Tokaji Aszú, Royal Tokaji, Essencia [Hungary] 500 ml 1995 70 275
382 Tokaji Aszú, Royal Tokaji, 5 Puttonyos [Hungary] 500 ml 2003 17 71
379 Sauternes, Château Gilette, Crème de Tête [Bordeaux, France] 1971 71 625
385 Sauternes, Château Gilette, Crème de Tête [Bordeaux, France] 1975 65 575
375 Sauternes, Château Gilette, Crème de Tête [Bordeaux, France] 375 ml 1983 55 225
387 Côtes de Bergerac Moelleux, Confit de la Colline [Bergerac, France] 375 ml 2001 17 51
384 Jurançon, Clos Lapeyre, La Magendia de Lapeyre [France] 375 ml 2002 18 53
377 Quarts de Chaume, Dme. des Baumard [Loire Valley, France] 375 ml 2005 21 95
380 Champagne Demi-Sec, Laurent-Perrier [Tours-sur-Marne, France] NV 19 89
386 Moscato d’Asti, Saracco [Piedmont, Italy] 375ml 2008 9 39
388 Brachetto d’Acqui, Banfi, Rosa Regale [Piedmont, Italy] 375 ml 2008 8 35
395 Angialis, Argiolas [Isola dei Nuraghi, Sardinia, Italy] 375 ml 2002 24 101
391 Monastrell Late Harvest, Bellum, El Remate [Yecla, Spain] 375ml 2004 16 75
398 Moscatel #2, Jorge Ordonez & Co., Victoria [Malaga, Spain] 375ml 2005 19 90
378 Vidal Icewine, Inniskillin, Gold [Niagara Peninsula VQA, Canada] 187 ml 2005 27 81
390 Riesling Eroica, Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen,
Single Berry Select [Columbia, Washington] 375 ml 2000 72 300
Dessert Wines
7/23/2009 24

2 comments on “Restaurant Review: Café On The Green

  1. Absolutely stunning breadth. World class in that respect. Maybe a Torrontes, Chilean Carmenere and Camel Valley Vineyards white could be added in the next iteration. Now, how about your verticals of 1930s claret?