Quick Review: Burguesa Burgers

bb11Jeff “Which Wich, Genhis Grill” Sinelli’s newest concept, Burguesa Burgers, is cheap. Yesterday a burger, fries, and a drink was selling for 68 pesos ($5.00). The concept, designed for a Mexican clientele, accepts pesos and dollars. The menu is in Spanish. The little drive-though shack is painted neon orange and looks like a giant festive piñata next to the original Sonny Bryan’s on Lemmon. There are no tables, but there are a few parking spaces if you care to eat in your car. They serve hamburgers and cheeseburgers, soft drinks mixed with cane sugar, and shakes with tiny donuts on the straw.

Some cars are bigger than the restaurant.
Some cars are almost bigger than the restaurant.

We ordered two burguesas con queso, fries, and a strawberry shake. Our driver, a vegetarian, skipped on their offer to make a burguesa sin burguesa. We sipped the strawberry shake with remnants or real strawberry in the mix, and headed over to the patio at Whole Foods on Lemmon to eat.

Here’s the deal: the burgers are skinny meat, skinny bun. I like that. If you like thicker meat, order a double. The lettuce is shredded and the secret sauce (Cholula hot sauce-spiked mayonnaise) adds a nice kick. I would eat the burger again.

However, I never want to see the fries once more.  The skinny, limp, tasteless fries are served in a cup and hang over the sides like dead worms. Pick one out, squeeze it, and watch your appetite evaporate. I’m not a grease snob—I like a good shot of lard every now and then, but these pathetic half-cooked strings mixed with quarter-sized chunks of almost raw potatoes dissolved into a pasty mass. They leave a strong aftertaste of car exhaust—gassy, smoky, and toxic—in your mouth.

Our wacky art director, Todd, loves the Monumental, a ginormous burger/torta concoction with layers of beef, spicy mayonnaise, cheese, avocado, crispy tostadas (orange?), ham, and refried beans. Oh, and a whole pickled jalapeno.

The two other cars we observed were full of yuppie, white Americans. A Hispanic man stood on the street waving a sign and urging drivers to pull in. Burguesa Burger felt a little too American for comfort.

9 comments on “Quick Review: Burguesa Burgers

  1. On Inwood?? Close to the 35 end.

    I have not eaten there but a co-worked said the same thing about the fries!! He said no way can frieds be good after traveling in a styroform cups. It grossed me out to hear about it.

    But he was fine with the burger.

  2. There’s not enough burger choices in Dallas that folks are willing to put up with an ‘OK’ burger and cruddy fries? OK sandwiches and bad fries warrant the copious free publicity it’s been getting? Enough already.

  3. Jeff was so careful when it came to the choice of ingredients for Genhis Grill and Which Wich it really makes you wonder what on earth he was thinking when he put those fries in his new burger spot.

    I’ve eaten there only twice but these fries aren’t just bad, they are the worst fries I’ve ever put in my mouth. I even ordered them again just make sure and they were just as bad as the first time if not worse!

    How he gets all the food media so stirred up and gets more free publicity than anyone I can tell is a really good question and quite beyond me now.

    Jeff: your burgers are “ok” but your fries are letting your reputation down. Way down.

  4. I think you folks are missing the point that the papas fritas more closely resemble the fried potatoes that you would get in Mexico.

    keep in mind it’s not trying to be another burger joint, but one with south of the border flavors.

    I liked the fries FWIW.

  5. I tried Burguesa a few weeks ago and here goes my critic. The hamburguer is OK period, the fries are the worst fries I have tried in my whole life (and living in Mexico for over 20 yrs I can tell you these are not Mexican style fries), and the coke I was given tasted more like RC cola from Quick Mart. I believe the owner has a great idea but needs to make a few adjustments on the menu. I pass by Burguesa everyday but never went back, although I would be willing to if they only changed their frech fries.

    Thanks,