
Chef Francis Mallmann at Central Market in Dallas.
Last night our editorial intern, Kellyn Curtis, headed over to Central Market for a tough assignment–a cooking class led by, “The Thomas Keller of South America,” Francis Mallman. His recent cookbook, Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way is gorgeous. Here’s what went on at CM on Lovers last night:
1 Comment »Dallas cooking enthusiasts got a little taste of Argentina Monday night at Central Market’s cooking school. Chef Francis Mallman, one of South America’s biggest culinary stars, prepared three dishes the Argentine way and paired them with some great wines.
Chef Mallman became Argentina’s best-known chef by preparing haute-French cuisine. But he soon got bored and decided to go back to the basics by cooking with wood fire and cast iron – the way the gauchos used to do it. The change paid off. He owns three South American restaurants and has written several cookbooks.
The class entitled Seven Fires/Three Winds started off with a salad. Sounds simple enough, but according to the chef even the simplest things can be difficult to do well. But he made the burnt carrots with goat cheese, parsley, arugula, and crispy garlic chips salad look easy. He paired it with a Trivento Torrontes Select, a crisp wine with flavors of tropical fruit and citrus.
The next item on the menu was a whole boneless rib eye with chimichurri served with a Patagonian potato galette. Chef Mallman pointed out that chimichurri is the most Argentinean sauce for meat. Chefs have tried to make variations of the original, but Mallman says there is only one true chimichurri. He waited until the last minute to coat the rib eye with the sauce so that the two different flavors would remain separate. For this course, he chose a red wine – Trivento Malbec Select.
He finished off the night with burnt oranges and rosemary paired with a Trivento Pinot Noir. This is one of his simplest recipes but the flavors and texture were intense and complex. Warning: don’t attempt this dish indoors – it will engulf the kitchen in smoke.
Still on the leaning curve when it comes to pairing beer with food? Get help from the Beer Sommelier on GreatBrewers.com. (Oh, that has Dave Fairies’ name written all over it!) I just paired my pork craving with a Fat Tire. I couldn’t find Cheetos or nachos, but I did learn that corn fritters go with Michelob Ultra Amber. Go, have fun.
Norman Brinker, Dallas’ most prominent restaurateur died yesterday while vacationing in Colorado. Former D CEO writer, David Moore, wrote a great piece on Brinker, the man who took Chili’s, Burger King, Steak and Ale, Bennigan’s, and Jack in the Box to the world. Brinker was 78.
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Pork products in Tuscany
If you have been to Tuscany and you love food, then you know what happens when you get back to Dallas: you crave all of the sensuous tastes that have satiated your palate. When I returned from Siena last fall, I craved sage and pork. In particular, sausage from the Cinta Senese pig, a product, of course, you can’t buy in the U.S. And fresh pici, a labor-intensive semolina pasta that is common to the Tuscan table. Three days after I returned, I called Paul over at Jimmy’s Food Store. Before I could finish the sentence: “Hi, I just got back from Tuscany and…”, he interrupted me and said, “We don’t have pici.”
If you live in Dallas, you know good Tuscan is hard to find. I’ve had some “come close” meals at Bene Bene in North Dallas. Today comes a cry from another Tuscan traveler. I can taste her pain.
16 Comments »My husband and I recently had the best meal of our lives in Siena, Italy…it was a boar dish, marinated in milk and other amazing spices for something like 24 hours then slowly cooked to perfection. His birthday is coming up and I’d love to find a restaurant in Dallas that has authentic Tuscan food, and that makes a similar dish. I know it’s a long shot, but do you know of a place that does? I’ve done some research but looks like the Italian places I know don’t serve similar food, and especially not boar.
Wednesday June 10th Charlie Palmer at the Joule will present Pinot Noir from Burgundy in their weekly wine tasting from 5pm-7pm. Sommelier Brandon Kelley will lead guests through the selections of this difficult to grow and often temperamental grape, that when done right produces pure velvet in a glass. Burgundians are known for producing some of the most sought after and appreciated, and five will be featured on Wednesday. The tasting is by reservation for $25 per person. To make a reservation call 214-261-4600.