Former Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek chef John Tesar relocated to New York in March to work at David Burke’s Fishtail restaurant. Today, the New York Times‘ Frank Bruni reviews it and gives it one star. Tesar is only mentioned once:
But under the first executive chef, Eric Hara, and under his successor, John Tesar, the kitchen turned out plenty of clunkers: mealy octopus; a lobster carbonara with bits of bacon as hard as pellets; tough prawns arranged prettily but pointlessly over the gluiest, saddest, blandest little pesto ravioli you can imagine.
But it’s not all bad. Bruni mentions several things he likes about Fishtail, including the fillet of halibut, the mussels, a Scottish langoustine special, and a “can o’ cake,” a dessert that comes with a cake batter-covered mixing bowl and paddles (yum). He also says David Burke produced a restaurant “with some real charms, among them its smooth, upbeat service and an attractive, comfortable setting in an Upper East Side town house.” Read the whole thing here.