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Samplings From Spain Tonight at The Grape

Everyone I know seems to be talking about Spain…the food…the wine…the culture…maybe it is dreams of Barcelona our their head.  If you are having these dreams visit The Grape tonight for quick get away to this  destination of traditional and avant-garde gastronomy. 

Chef/Owner Brian Luscher will prepare a three course dinner with special guest Nancy Axtman, from New Age Wines, to discuss the pairings with each guest.  This is the May ”dine at your own pace”  wine dinner The Grape holds each month, with reservations available throughout the night.

Good Advice From the French: It’s All About the Love

Janice Provost, chef/owner of Parigi Restaurant on Oak Lawn,  just returned from a Parisian holiday, where surely she discovered a few new ideas for summertime recipes.  While away she sent an email about her adventure in a Le Cordon Bleu cooking class. 

For all of us wanna be cooks with Top Chef dreams in our head, I found this encouraging and inspiring from her eloquent instructor, along with Janice’s adherence to the advice:

Chef said it all…you cook with your senses. You cook with your sense of timing; you cook with love; with touch, smell, hearing, and taste.  There are no timers in this kitchen; you just learn it and you know.  Allo?  C’est perfect! 
I loved him from that moment on. 

It is true.  You know when you know, and when you know, it is a gift. 

My monk fish was smaller than everyone else’s.  So, I pulled mine out about 7 minutes before everyone else.  No one told me to, I just knew. Our translator just looked at me, surely figuring our instructor would correct me….  However, I knew with residual heat that my monk was listo, and I was so correcto. 

Chef complimented me on the removal, and told everyone else that the timing was based on the above mentioned criteria.

Fantastique Janice!  Can’t wait to see what dishes, filled with love, pop up on your menu.

1st Annual Dallas Wine Trail a Success

The first annual Dallas Wine Trail occurred last Saturday at Times Ten Cellars in Lakewood, with Calais Winery, Inwood Estates Vineyards and Fuqua Winery participating in the event to celebrate wine making in Dallas…yes Dallas.   Over 200 people stopped by the event tasting three selections from each of the wineries, along with complimentary pizza from Il Cane Rosso.  Each owner was on hand pouring their specialties, discussing their passion for the grape, and their commitment to making wine in Dallas…yes, Dallas. 

Texas has over 170 wineries throughout the state, with more popping up every day.  I hate to admit that I thought Texas wine was still in a development stage, so it was a pleasure to taste some of the award winning wine being made right in our backyard.  Follow the jump for more on the wineries.

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Steve Connolly Seafood Company Answers Your Questions About Salmon

Dean Fearing gets a fishing lesson from Steve Connolly Seafood Company's senior buyer, Robert Chandler.

This morning I called Willy Warner, the national sales manager and corporate executive chef at Steve Connolly Seafood Company in Boston. Willy spends a lot of time in Dallas working with our local chefs  and educating them on seafood. Armed with a lengthy list of questions about salmon, I started firing away. When we got to the complicated marine biology stuff, Willy handed me off to Robert Chandler, Connolly’s senior buyer and Boston plant manager. Chandler  also has a degree in marine biology. Below is a Q&A with the folks from Connolly. Most of the questions are copied and pasted from reader’s comments and questions. Here goes.

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Free Zapp’s Potato Chips at Potbelly on Wednesday, June 3

First of all, can anyone believe it’s June? But whatever. I like free–and Potbelly Sandwiches is giving away Zapp’s potato chips at most locations between 11 am-2 pm on Wednesday, June 3. Why? Because it’s a promotion, silly. Apparently Potbelly searched far and wide for the perfect potato match to its sandwich goodness. So there you have it.

Check Out the Pictures From Last Night’s D Art Slam VIP Preview Party

They’re here.

Does John Tesar Really Have a Potty Mouth?

On May 22, Eater NY reported on John Tesar’s departure from Fishtail. Later in the day, they ran one of the comments below the post as a “Comment of the Day.”  The quote, a smear job on Fishtail’s David Burke, was written by a blogger who signed in as John Tesar. No biggie until The Village Voice picked up the quote and ran with it as an actual Tesar comment.(second graph) Yow. Zah.

I’ve heard many a tale about Mr. Tesar’s spicy language. (I’m not throwing any stones here.) Today the Village Voice has an interview with the chef John Tesar, who denies being the blogger John Tesar.

I’ll say one thing—no matter where or how he goes, Tesar’s always in a cloud of smoke. Like Pigpen in Peanuts.

What Kind of Salmon Are You Eating? The Questions Continue

Our spirited and spontaneous Jammin’ With Wild Salmon Blind Taste Testing has sparked some brilliant conversation. I wish I could say here, but it’s on DallasFood.org. While the tasting wasn’t the most scientific—we set out to just see if we could pick Copper River salmon out of the pack—we have touched off a great debate on salmon. I have a call in to a seafood expert and have a list of questions. Would love to have yours answered at the same time. Hit it.

UPDATE: Well, I’ve just spent the last two and a half hours researching and writing a report. As I copied the document and just as I was ready to paste  it into the blog format, my computer crashed. The whole interview is lost in cyber space. Excuse me for a few hours.

Wine Tastings at Crush This Weekend

Crush Wine Shop on Knox Street pours some nice fruit of the vine this weekend. On Friday, sip some bubbly from Champagne Ayala 6:30-8:30 pm. The only French champagne house with Latin roots, Ayala’s Cuvée Rosé Nature was named Wine of the Year in 2008 by Champagne expert Ed McCarthy. On Saturday, Crush samples the big Zins from Cline Cellars. I’ve always been a fan of these affordable fruit bombs. In addition to two Zins, Crush will pour Cline’s Viognier, Mourvedre (another fave), and Cashmere blend. The Cline tasting is $15. Ayala’s is free.

Restaurant Review: Twitter Edition

I’m off to do a restaurant review and I’m going to “Tweet from the Table.” Or bathroom. Follow us:  DSideDish.

Pappadeaux Spices Up June with Clos du Bois

Pappadeaux teams with Clos du Bois for a Cajun inspired wine dinner June 11 at their Oak Lawn location.  Pappas Restaurants Executive Chef, Michael Gaspard will prepare the dinner, with Pappas Wine expert, Drew Hendricks, MS, along with Larry O’Brien, MS, on hand to discuss, sip and savor the pairings.  Clos du Bois prides itself on making approachable, food friendly wine with refined style in Sonoma County.  Paired with the hearty flavors in Chef Gaspard cooking, this is sure to be a tasty evening.     Click the jump for additional details and to view the menu.

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Jammin’ With Wild Salmon Blind Tasting: A Report

The salmon taste committee was blindfolded. Dumb idea.

Last night twelve diligent Dishers showed up at TJ’s Seafood Market to learn about and taste different types of salmon. The event was sparked by a debate last week on whether Copper River salmon is more flavorful than other wild salmon or if it is just  marketed more effectively. One seafood industry insider said, “We in the fish business call Copper River Salmon, Stupid River Salmon. Way over priced.”

Copper River salmon was the winner.

We set out to see if this was true. The goal was to taste test three wild salmon samples in a blind test. The first “problem” was, due to the Memorial Day weekend, the supplier couldn’t secure three wild varieties so we had to substitute an Atlantic farm raised salmon from the Bay of Fundy at the last minute.

The second mishap was my fault–I insisted the tasters wear blindfolds. I thought they would be influenced by the color of the fish. It worked–they couldn’t see the differences in color, but they also couldn’t see their evaluation sheets. Then, halfway through the program, I learned from a chef at the table that Copper River isn’t necessarily redder than other salmon and that some vendors  “dye the fish to [a restaurant’s] order.”

That was just one of the eye opening lessons we  learned last night. TJ’s marketing director Jon Alexis gave a nice Salmon 101 class and his mother, owner Caren, enlightened the group with stories from her years of experience as a fishmonger. Jump for the full report.

UPDATE: Click here for Worzel’s report.

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Spotted: Yankees at State and Allen Lounge

Hey InsideCorner dudes, lookee here. Got some sports news from a well-connected Disher:

After beating the Rangers in a Monday afternoon game, Derek Jeter and other Yankee players, including Kevin Cash, came into State & Allen in Uptown to watch the Lakers/Nuggets game on Monday night. Passing remark overheard was “Well, there’s about 300 million dollars sitting there in the front dining room……” Word is too that the group of about 14 were generous tippers.

Monday is half-price pizza night, maybe that’s why they were there? Developing.

Will the Design District Be the Next Dining Hotspot?

You know Dallas. We’re always looking for the next big thing. Uptown and the West Village are saturated with restaurants. Bishop Arts is maxed out and heading west down Davis Street. (Hello, Bolsa and ConFusion.) Deep Ellum is still in a funk. And Victory? See La Condesa below. Henderson Avenue is the current “it” place as the East Dallas street hops along with its gentrification efforts. But today I was driving into work through all the construction going on along Oak Lawn Avenue in the Design District and saw a sign in a vacant storefront: “For Lease: Restaurant Site.” Hmmmm… that’s interesting. The Design District is already fast becoming our little SoHo with its design showrooms, decor stores, and art galleries. Residential is moving in fast. Could destination dining be far behind? It’s a cool, urban area that has grown organically over the years. It doesn’t feel forced or contrived. (Hi again, Victory!) I think some restaurateur with chuztpah and deep pockets could transform this sleepy district (at least at night) into something pretty grand. Hey Kent, Phil, and Tristan: You guys listening? Want to make some money?

Texas Rain Report: The Good, Bad, and the Ugly

For those of you interested in agribusiness, here is the latest Texas A&M Texas AgriLife Extension Service report from Robert Burns. It’s a crazy, big state we live in.

When it comes to rain, Texas remains a state split into the haves and have-nots, according to reports by Texas AgriLife Extension Service personnel.

While North Texas fields are still drying out from deluges of 12-15 inches, the drought continues to plague South Texas. Drowned-out corn is yellowing and stunted. Wheat, as in many other parts of Texas, got hit first by late freezes. In North Texas, the same flood that hurt corn further damaged wheat.

The condition of the Texas cotton crop varied widely. In most of the southern parts of Texas, few crops were doing well, including cotton. In the Weslaco area, where dryland cotton is the rule, the crop is all but lost, according to AgriLife Extension agronomists.

In the Panhandle, many counties received rain, but some counties remained dry. Those growers who could irrigate have had better luck with their cotton. Most dryland growers have delayed planting, waiting for more moisture. (more…)

Victory Park: La Condesa is Closed

Ace PegNews reporter, pizza lover, and pastry person Teresa Gubbins reports La Condesa is closed. The Mexican restaurant with a large tequila bar in Victory Park is cerrado. No mas. It has ceased to exist.
Owners Donald Chick and Jesse Herman opened a second La Condesa about six months ago. Chick is the dude in the process of opening a new restaurant on Henderson with chef Marc Cassel. Originally, the place was to be called Jones but I think the name is being tweaked to reflect the “California roadhouse with a farm-fresh mentality” menu. Chick may be a good guy, but he is not Sharon Hage’s best friend. I would like to taste Marc Cassel’s food again. Oh, the Green Room.

D Art Slam Starts Tonight

Our first-ever D Art Slam, presented by D Magazine and f.i.g., starts tonight with a VIP (read: you) party from 7-9 pm. The event runs from May 29 through May 31 at f.i.g. (1807 Ross Ave.). More than 150 local artists–Rees Bowen, Glenn Comtois, Frankie Garcia III, Michael Ledoux, Michael Longhofer, Shane Pennington, George Tobolowsky, and our award-winning staff photographer Elizabeth Lavin–exhibit and sell their works at this three-day juried show in the Dallas Arts District. At the VIP preview party, attendees can mix and mingle with the artists and be the first to purchase their favorite works. Tickets for the preview party are $100. To see a full list of participating artists, or to purchase tickets, visit the website.  Our marketing director Mary Poe says, “Culinary Art Catering is serving some yummy arty food.”

Joel Peterson Knows Old Vines

Joel Peterson has been making wine in California’s Sonoma Valley since before tourists saw it as a vacation destination.  The Ravenswood Wineryfounder’s parents introduced him to the crushed grape early on, after bottle of 1945 Châteauneuf-du-Pape was tasted at their 1951 Thanksgiving dinner, along with an early 1950’s Château d’Yquemthat cost $3.45 a bottle.  Joel’s father started one of the first wine tasting societies in the San Francisco region of California, and would look to his young son, with a fresh, naive nose, to identify aromas in the wine.  If Joel smelled apple, the society would taste the night selections with apples; if he smelled licorice, they would taste with licorice.  He helped influence the pioneering society with a fresh perspective.  Joel’s fate was set then and there.

He started Ravenswood in 1976 with a total of 327 produced cases.  Today that number has grown to hundreds of thousands. When he started he wanted to create a great Bordeaux blend, but knew that he wasn’t ready to compete with the big dog of the time, Robert Mondavi, so he decided to be a small fish in the small Zinfandel pond and create something special from this truly Californian grape.  In order to develop respect for this fruity grape he co-founded ZAP, Zinfandel Associates and Producers, organization.   The first ZAP conference had about 50 people in attendance, 25 of which were from the wineries.  Today it is an international conference, with the annual San Francisco event hosting and attendance of over 9,000 Zinfandel lovers and additional conferences held all over the country.   

Clearly, Joel’s desire to craft classic style wine, from what he believes is the best grape to grow in California, from exceptionally old vines, has proven successful.  He has an uncompromising determination to create the best his vineyards will allow, and today he is the largest producer of Zinfandel in the world.  Follow the jump for more.

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(Probably The Last) SideDish Supper Club Review

It comes from the Law Reviewers. Read it here.

Texas de Brazil Express to Open in Preston Center

I just lunched in Preston Center and noticed a sign going up. Texas de Brazil Express. My good friend and investigative reporter Evan Grant jumped out of the car and got the scoop: It’s going to be a casual version of Texas de Brazil with sandwiches made from their Latin meats. Should be open in about a month.

Siduri Winemakers Come Home to Dallas

Dianna and Adam Lee met about 17 years ago while working in the wine and epicurean departments of Dallas’ Neiman Marcus.  They both had a passion for wine, a desire to move to California and make award winning Pinot Noir.  Now, 15 years after moving West and launching their winery, Siduri (the Babylonian Goddess of wine,) and sister winery Novy(named for Dianna’s family) in Sonoma Valley, their dream is an award winning reality. They make over 20 wines from grapes sourced throughout California and Oregon. 
Keeping true to their Dallas roots, they nurture these grapes from juice to wine in tanks named after some of the greatest Dallas Cowboys to play the game. (I liked the Roger Staubach tank personally.)  

On June 11 they venture back to Dallas with a 4 course wine dinner in the Dallas Zoo’s Flamingo Room.  The dinner will feature 6 of their wine selections, including their 2006 Siduri Rosella’s Pinot Noir, a wine that received a 92 point rating from the Connoisseurs Guide.  Follow the jump for menu details and how to make reservations.

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Scott Jones to Close Café Italia on Lovers Lane

Café Italia, the Tex-Italian restaurant will close in late August. Owner Scott Jones, who is allegedly still involved in the operation of Screen Door in One Arts Plaza, announced today that he will replace Café Italia with a new concept. Café Italia opened on Maple Avenue in 1984. Jones bought it in 2001 and opened the Lovers’ location in 2002. Mr. Jones has rehired Louis Mendes, the man who opened the original restaurant to oversee the last few months of operation. According to the press release: “He added his Tex-Italian fare to the menu to offer the uniqueness that has helped make Café Italia successful year after year. The restaurant has continued to garner rave reviews and was even named by PaperCity as a “Top Five Dallas Restaurant.” Jones is also working on a new concept in Fort Worth.

Bob Sambol of Bob’s Steak & Chop House on Lemmon Files Chapter 11

Bob Sambol owner of Bob’s Steak & Chop House on Lemmon Avenue has filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy.  “I’m filing for Chapter 11 with Bob’s,” said Sambol. “I’ve never recovered from my almost $2 million dollar loss in Denver and coupled with the downturn in the economy, it is what it is. It is the best thing for the restaurant.”

In November 2005, Sambol and former partner Bill Lennox opened a Bob’s Steak & Chop House at Cherry Creek North in Denver. It closed in 2007.

What does this mean? “The restaurant stays open, the employees and taxes get paid, but past bills are lumped together and renegotiated,” said Sambol. Bill Lennox, Sambol’s former partner and current owner of the Bob’s brand is on board with the move.

The filing for bankruptcy is not related to Sambol’s legal hassle with a former customer, Lee Thompson, Jr. “There’s no word on that,” said Sambol. “Nothing is going to be settled for 7 to 9 months.”

Janie’s Pound Cakes: Worth a Trip to Tyler

Almost a year ago, Stacey Yervasi tried a slice of Janie’s pound cake at Whole Foods and told us all about it, here. Last week I got something in the mail besides a bill or a press release: a box filled with my very own pound cake from Janie’s. Janie’s Cakes come from Tyler, Texas. No, Tyler isn’t Dallas, but NN has a lakehouse out that direction, which makes it blog worthy to me (and of course, they ship their goods all over the country). Anyway, the one they sent me is their latest flavor, La Dolce Vita. It is chocolate and plain pound cake swirl with a “chocolate ribbon,” aka chocolate sauce, in the middle (Remember the 90’s? Think a molten lava cake center). The white and semi-sweet chocolate shavings on top added a nice textural element to the moist (nose crinkle) and buttery poundcake.

Oh, and: Janie makes her cakes using eggs from chickens she raised at her home. She has over 300 chickens in her backyard. She also uses Madagascar vanilla from Nielsen-Massey Vanilla, Imperial sugar, unbleached King Arthur Flour, and USDA grade AA butter. No artificial stuff, no preservatives. And the yellow and white-striped box is totally cute.

You know what I wish? I wish Janie would come to Dallas and sell her cakes at the Dallas Farmer’s Market. I really liked the one she sent, and I think they would make great hostess gifts, or something yummy to have on hand when I’ve got company. Also, I’d like to munch on a slice when I pick up my Canton peaches. Just a thought.

Reading About Food: MFK Fisher

I’m sure most of you have read a lot of books about food. (Hi Ruthie, nice tweets!) Lately most of the ones I’ve read have been about the dark side of dining—I just finished Food, Inc., the newest in a line of reports on food poisoning, labor and animal abuse, the industrialization of our food supply, and world hunger. So I was delighted when I opened my mail this morning to find the copy of An Alphabet for Gourmets I’d ordered. It’s been over twenty years since I first read MFK Fisher’s 26 sensuous chapters devoted to some of her long-time obsessions (potato chips, macadamia, and caviar) and is full of quirky and eccentric essays on culinary traditions. If you’ve never read one of Fisher’s books—and there are many–you should. Here’s a little sample.