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Report From Five-Sixty Grand Opening: Jason Castro Eats Wolf

Posted on February 11th, 2009 9:57am by Nancy Nichols
Filed under Foodie People, Openings, Restaurant News

Here is a report from guest blogger, the unedited and sassy Snooty Foodie!

The View, the Chew, and the Spew… Here We Go

Who knew any restaurant opening could rival all the hypes and snipes of Fearing’s arrival?  With a price tag that could’ve paved the Trinity Tollway with gold bricks, Five-Sixty doesn’t disappoint with its stunning views, 3 levels of service – including an observation deck, the mildly nauseating 55-minute rotation, and Puck’s famous Californicasian cuisine.  And though it’s wedged into Dallas’ most famous phallic symbol, there’s a lot more Vegas than Texas – like the wine list that is thick and interesting but really needs to be tweaked to the local palate and this guy (left) that I suppose could star in Cirque du So-Dallas?

And at these events where the nibbles are passed, they are often cold, bland, and very average.  Could’ve been the altitude and I know the food has been covered in other posts but we have to say the pork tenderloin dumplings, skewered black cod, chinois-style chicken salad and chocolate soufflé bites were so good they belonged at least 561 feet in the air.  Sorry, couldn’t come up with a better height related compliment.  We made off with a dinner menu and, predictably, it’s pricey.  Apps range from $12-$19 and entrees go from $26-$44.

To no one’s surprise, the 5-foot nothing Wolfmeister doesn’t cook at these deals (or much at all anymore).  But he’s there in the freshly starched chef jacket, working the room, smiling for photo ops, scribbling his sig on cookbooks, acting somewhat interested when someone says hi and tells them they’re a huge fan.  And, to his credit, when the cameras were on, he was all smiles – “I llllluv Dahhlass!”  Hot little cougar comes up for him to autograph the cook book he was hawking – “Ah I’m sooo happy to finally be in Dahhlass!”  Not quite sure we’re spelling it like his accent sounded (reads more Asian than Austrian) but he’s not unlike his countryman the Gubernator.  (Note to Puck – Dude, you’ve been here for a couple of decades, pick up a Rosetta Stone and start talking like us will ya?)  I mean, on TV it’s kinda cute.  In person, it’s just kinda sorta cute.  And when the spotlight is off…eh…he looks bored, checking his watch, probably wondering how many covers Spago did tonight.

But let’s be honest, his name is on the door but the two maestros of Wolfgang’s most recent concerto are GM Shawn Horne and Execu-chef Sara Johannes (pictured left).  Between these two, the food was spectacular and the waves of service and wait staff left no one in need of a tasty morsel or adult libation.  And you can tell these two get along quite famously for a GM and Chef.  I mean, how many GMs blow a kiss to the chef?Honestly, we’ve come to expect greatness from Horne with his track record of success in his previous stints at (among others) AquaKnox, Abacus, Stephan Pyles, and most recently Kitchen 1924.  He’s got the team of 105 waiters already in stride just a few weeks into service.  And Johannes?  Let’s just say this – in her free time she’s done some high wire acrobatics and competitive roller derby!  To borrow a NN phrase – Yow. Za.  My kinda chick!!

23 comments

  1. “like the wine list that is thick and interesting but really needs to be tweaked to the local palate”

    ???

    Maybe the local palate needs a wake-up call. At least Five-Sixty’s list is not another boring read of Napa Valley’s collection of over-rated, over-ripe, over-hyped Cabernets that is found on every generic steak house “wine list.”

    If this city’s “palate” had any REAL wine education and courage behind it’s money, you people wouldn’t be afraid of a little ol’ wine list.

    Maybe we should tweak the menu so that there are more beef steak offerings…you know, to fit the local palate. Play it safe. Keep the consumers happy and dumb. Don’t offer any challenges or anything different.

    Enjoy your Cakebread, Nancy.

    @ 10:22 am on February 11, 2009

  2. Excuse me, why are you picking on me? I was drinking wine from France before you were born.

    @ 10:27 am on February 11, 2009

  3. My apologies Nancy…

    Enjoy your Cakebread, Snooty Foodie.

    @ 10:33 am on February 11, 2009

  4. Oooh, Jeff’s an angry elf!

    I’d like to give full credit to Puck for one thing – there are now 5 places to eat his food in Dallas, and with the exception of Nokia, they are all downtown. (For those keeping track, that’s 560, Union Station, Nasher Sculpture Center, Nokia, and he caters the Hunt Oil HQ.)

    @ 10:34 am on February 11, 2009

  5. Hey Jeff, Dallasites are more educated than you think and they also know what they like. 560 needs the locals more than the locals need 560. That’s all we need, another big name transplant with attitude.

    @ 10:50 am on February 11, 2009

  6. You people? What do you mean, “you people?”

    @ 10:53 am on February 11, 2009

  7. For the record, I don’t work for or represent Five-Sixty. So mistake my attitude for theirs.

    So please don’t lump me in there with Wayne…or whatever that guy’s name is from N9NE who teed off on the locals.

    I’m a Dallasite born and bred, I just get tired of every adventuresome wine list being abandoned for everyday gruel because the consumers don’t know better and the somms can’t educate better. My hat’s off to plenty of locally-owned restaurant wine lists…big and small.

    @ 11:17 am on February 11, 2009

  8. I meant to say: “So don’t mistake my attitude for theirs.”

    @ 11:18 am on February 11, 2009

  9. Jeff…there are few better sommeliers than D’Lynn Proctor who will take copious time to educate you better on what to select from the wine list. Not only is he incredibly knowledgeable, but he is very passionate about teaching and sharing his knowledge of wine. He has an ability to breakdown the complexities of a wine list into simple ideas without making you feel simple.

    @ 11:37 am on February 11, 2009

  10. Hey Jeff, did you read our description “thick and interesting” and think that was a slam? If you’ve seen our site you know we’re all about an adventurous wine list. The point was/is that the list is more like a Vegas restaurant than a Dallas one. Depending on who you are and the sophistication of your palate the list could be one of the best in town or incredibly intimidating.

    So put that in your Gewürztraminer and smoke it!

    @ 11:46 am on February 11, 2009

  11. I think there’s plenty of room at the table for both old world and new world wines. I often defer to the sommelier when ordering anyway. He/she knows the food and wine list the best, and I’m usually happy with the results. Oh, and don’t be hatin’ Cakebread. Its Dancing Bear Cab is fantastic. (The cookbook is pretty stellar too.)

    @ 12:19 pm on February 11, 2009

  12. Whoa, whoa… Jeff has a point even if the comment is a little abrupt.

    First, if the list is thick and interesting, meaning there is quite a bit of variety, then it is a contradiction to say that it needs to be tweaked for the locals. If there is that much variety, then the locals will be able to find wines that fit their tastes.

    Second, that comment certainly demeans Dallas-ites. It is true we have a unfortunately skewed sense of what good, quality food and wine is, but that does not mean that we cannot appreciate quality when it is presented to us. Generally, we just do not have the caliber of restaurant here to help educate us by experience. Hopefully, because the wine list is thick and interesting we will get that chance.

    @ 1:46 pm on February 11, 2009

  13. Jeff you’ve become redundant and pedantic.

    Ever since Baron Philippe de Rothschild died, I have no one to talk to about wine.

    @ 2:44 pm on February 11, 2009

  14. Enuf about the wine – can we discuss the weird and wacky photo of Jason Castro eating wolf? Someone hold me…I’m scared!

    @ 2:48 pm on February 11, 2009

  15. Oh, this is soooo fun.

    @ 3:13 pm on February 11, 2009

  16. My local palate enjoys a nice box of franzia every now and then, you got a problem with that, Jeff? Franzia, might I add, has been dubbed the World’s Most Popular Wine. That’s right. In the World.

    Maybe Five-Sixty should try to fit a square box into a round restaurant.

    @ 3:28 pm on February 11, 2009

  17. Alright, back into the breech…

    Jessica,

    Jeff is trying to say that instead of paying obscene prices at a fine-dining restaurant for commonplace bottles, he’d rather pay those prices for interesting, unusual wines.

    @ 4:03 pm on February 11, 2009

  18. Yes, thank you Brian. I was purposefully being absurd. Sometimes it’s needed when people get all hot and bothered.

    @ 4:15 pm on February 11, 2009

  19. It seems the frustration here is misdirected at Jeff because of his brash style. Let’s not pick on the guy for having an opinion on what the author said. (Please see my original post.)

    @ 4:24 pm on February 11, 2009

  20. snausages

    @ 8:41 pm on February 11, 2009

  21. What about those lounge girls anyone seen them yet? I will buy any wine they offer.

    @ 9:21 pm on February 15, 2009

  22. meaghan is super sweet i think she works in the lounge only. she had me laughing and smiling before i even stepped into the dining area. great job girl.

    @ 9:23 pm on February 15, 2009

  23. Hey guys, what about the food? I read what the article had to say, but what do you guys say?

    @ 4:28 pm on February 17, 2009