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Nana Still Rocks

Posted on October 16th, 2008 10:49am by Jennifer Chininis
Filed under Reviews

This is, perhaps, something you Dishers already know. Heck, it’s something I knew. But it’s different to experience it again first-hand. You simply cannot match that view from 27 floors up, surrounded by art from the Trammell and Margaret Crow Collection of Asian Art. And the food–oh, the food! Anthony Bombaci is probably the most inventive chef in town. I know Nana sells more steak than anything else–this I hear anecdotally and witnessed myself when I saw a slab of beef on nearly every table–and it’s really a pity, because these diners are missing something special, albeit sometimes strange. The photo you see was my favorite course of the night, and not just because it was served in that spectacular Versace china: potato gnocchi, layered with escargot simmered in garlic and chives and chorizo, topped with the world’s most perfectly poached egg. It was almost too pretty to eat, but the best way to enjoy it is to gently break the egg and mix it all up. It’s the kind of dish I’ll remember always. As was the snickered foie gras parfait, which could have been a dessert. To see it stay with me after the jump.

This may be the most decadent thing I’ve ever put in my mouth (insert obvious joke here): foie gras moussse wedged inside two sheets of chocolate, topped with whole peanuts and served with a peanut butter mustard. (Millie, correct me if I’m wrong!)

This was actually our first course, and aside from the perfect meat from the lobster claw, there was a cauliflower “couscous” on the plate–the most brilliant side of veggies I’ve ever seen or tasted. You can also probably make out the cauliflower vanilla puree and lobster foam.

Here, duck breast with figs and chamomile. The duck was so tender, so flavorful, so greaseless–so sublime. If I were to return to Nana–and god I hope I do–I would order the gnocchi and this duck.

5 Comments to “Nana Still Rocks”

JS @ October 16th, 2008 at 11:10 am

Wow, and the last time I ate there my thoughts simply were “overrated” and “past its prime.”
Jennifer Chininis @ October 16th, 2008 at 11:21 am

You HAVE to go back. It’s one of the last of the special-occasion places in Dallas, in my opinion–and the food warrants the prices.
DT @ October 16th, 2008 at 2:48 pm

How much were each of the dishes?
Ciao Bella @ October 17th, 2008 at 7:27 am

Had the pleasure of attending the farmers market cooking class last year with Anthony. Never thought I would appreciate squash ice cream, but he’s a great chef..part mad scientist, part historian and very humble. All in all a great morning was spent with him and when he loosened up, he’s a very unny man (with a great wife and kids to boot). My wife and I decided at that point to go back to Nana and our meal was great (yes, very expensive, but a thought provoking expeience). Hopefully, he will continue to grace our city. Anthony, how about letting a little more of your Spanish influence onto the menu??
Will @ October 23rd, 2008 at 5:29 pm

Agree w/ JS. Have to say that this is one of the most overrated restaurants in Dallas.

SideDish is a food-related discussion among editors at D Magazine about the Dallas-Fort Worth dining scene -- everything from good meals to bad service, kitchen gossip to restaurant news, chefs’ secrets to culinary trends. Bon appetit.

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