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Nove in Victory Park Closes

Posted on September 15th, 2008 12:11pm by Nancy Nichols
Filed under Closings, Restaurant News

“Our own” Teresa Gubbins reports the death of Nove, the upscale Italian eatery in Victory Park. Am I surprised? No. Am I happy about it? Hell, no. Dallas, I’ve got a veal shank to pick with you–why do you dislike high-end Italian food? You’ve already kicked Il Mulino and Bice to the curb. Now you turn away another?

Two nights ago, I dined at Madeo in West Hollywood. It’s one of my favorite restaurants in the world. I have eaten there for over 20 years. It’s Northern Italian and expensive. As I savored the flavors, I asked myself why we in Dallas don’t appreciate the taste of exemplary pasta or veal dishes served with refined sauces. Are we that addicted to beef ? I am really bamboozled by this one. Spill you guts, we need Italian food therapy.

24 comments

  1. This and the lack of authentic, upper-scale Chinese food makes me want to move back to California.

    @ 12:21 pm on September 15, 2008

  2. It’s the fact that it’s an expensive Italian restaurant – it’s the troubled LOCATION. Victory Park is failing. Many retailers are suffering.

    When I purchased here I was sold this “promise” that thousands of people would be moving to Victory park. They’re not because nothing has been built for them. Instead, they’re moving to Uptown/Oaklawn and Harwood.

    Victory Park was subsidized because it was planned as a “neighborhood.” We need neighbors – plenty of them. Until then, it just is not going to succeed.

    The retailers and restaurants that are in trouble have all been subsidized – maybe residential projects that are a bit more affordable than $500 per-square-foot condos should get some subsidy. This would provide what the retailers really need – customers.

    The Victory Park brand is suffering.

    @ 12:24 pm on September 15, 2008

  3. I think it may be because we’re loyal to our local restaurants, like Mi Piaci, Daniele Osteria, Bellini’s, Paesano’s and Angelo’s.

    @ 12:30 pm on September 15, 2008

  4. Was Nove exemplary? I don’t know, I never made it there. I know it’s different on Sidedish but many of us can’t afford $100 meals every week.

    @ 12:38 pm on September 15, 2008

  5. So when does the Chili’s open on the SW side of the AAC?

    @ 12:42 pm on September 15, 2008

  6. It was reported on Overheard Sunday night. http://blog.peoplenewspapers.com/2008/09/14/nove-no-more/

    The industry folks hear restaurant closing news quickly because the jobless staff scramble to find new employers.

    @ 12:43 pm on September 15, 2008

  7. I love NOVE in Las Vegas and would have gone here but didn’t want to deal with Victory Park parking and nonsense.

    @ 12:54 pm on September 15, 2008

  8. Regardless of what some may say, there just aren’t enough people in town willing to pay those kinds of prices for a meal out on any kind of regular basis. Not to mention dealing with the odd parking situation down there.

    Put in a slightly more downscale establishment there (I’m not talking fast food or Chili’s) and I think it will do well.

    Outside of HP/UP and immediate surroundings, a totally-upscale mixed-use development is not going to work (Willow Bend, anyone?) It’s the mix of mid- and upper-scale retail and dining (think NorthPark) that seems to succeed.

    @ 12:57 pm on September 15, 2008

  9. You can find better Italian food here in Dallas at half the cost. We don’t mind paying for good food- but this place was slightly above average IMO.

    @ 12:59 pm on September 15, 2008

  10. The “Victory Park” phenomenon can probably also be attributed to the amount of free rent that was offered to entice these “Name players” to open a Dallas location. If they choose to stay in business beyond that time period, they are on the hook for a monthly loss.

    I don’t think Dallas is finished seeing more closings than openings. Not to be pessimistic, but as JB says, word gets around in this industry.

    I agree with Bethany that we have some very good local players who’ve stood the test of the “Dallas” phenomenon (rock for 3 months, then it’s on to a new fav). Any word on how Gina C. is faring? I’m one who’s pulling for her.

    @ 1:02 pm on September 15, 2008

  11. see ya!

    @ 1:09 pm on September 15, 2008

  12. I think this place was doomed from the start, even aside from the location. “Upscale” and “Northern Italian”, for whatever reason turn most people off in this town, and this was both. Most people think all italian food is basically what is served at spaghetti warehouse (what is actually deep-southern italy and sicilian peasant food), and don’t want to venture out of their comfort zone.

    I don’t understand it either.

    @ 2:03 pm on September 15, 2008

  13. It just wasn’t that good. Good upscale restaurants in Dallas are doing just fine. I believe if Nove had been great there are enough Foodies in Dallas that it would have thrived, no matter the location.

    @ 2:21 pm on September 15, 2008

  14. Think Mark Cahill may have pretty much hit it on the head with the troubled Victory Park location comment — this just ain’t working in Dallas anymore folks. Ditto on the parking too.

    Never had a problem with Nove’s food — bit safe and corporate but very good.

    Anyway, on my way to Nonna tonight — bye

    @ 2:29 pm on September 15, 2008

  15. I wasn’t a big fan of Nove but I agree that Victory is a tough place to make a dollar. Daniele Osteria seems to be hanging on pretty good. Or did I just jinx it?

    @ 2:29 pm on September 15, 2008

  16. The place was tacky and was very bridge and tunnel. Went there once and never returned, not because of the food but rather the atmosphere and clientele. RIP NOVE!

    @ 2:36 pm on September 15, 2008

  17. Ditto others on the location. Victory Park is the ’00s version of the West End. It’s basically a distilled amusement park that appeals more to visitors than to residents. Bice also suffered from its location. That spot seems to be cursed and has rotated through more restaurants than I can recall in the 12 years that I’ve lived here.

    Additionally, the reason for failures at Nove, Bice, and Il Mulino could stem from the ‘chain’ issue. Yes, DFW is the home of chains, but note that high-end chains don’t necessarily have a stellar track record here (Smith & Wollensky, BLT, etc.). I think Dallasites prefer more-locally concocted restaurants when paying a tab over $50/person. When choosing an Italian spot for a special night out (especially when entertaining out-of-town guests), why would one choose an Italian restaurant that exists in other cities? Speaking for myself, I’m much more likely to choose Nonna, Mi Piaci, Villa O, or Arcodoro/Pomodoro for a special Italian meal because (with the exception of A/P in Houston) I know that they’re not only good but alos unique to our city.

    @ 3:12 pm on September 15, 2008

  18. When I think “expense account meal”, Italian is not my first thought. It’s probably not even in the top five. In a time when you can learn to make good, high-quality Italian food by watching every third half-hour on Food Network (or in my case, listening to late my mom-in-law), it would have to be spectacular to justify the prices at some of the places that are closing – you’re paying for service, not ingredients. The mom and pop’s still seem to be surviving. Maybe Italian is not meant to be upper-crust.

    @ 3:21 pm on September 15, 2008

  19. Speaking of Daniele Osteria… pizza and Sunday brunch have arrived.

    http://www.danieleosteria.com/brunch.htm

    @ 3:33 pm on September 15, 2008

  20. Listening to your late mom-in-law? Now that’s a Food Network show – “Supping by Séance.”

    @ 3:36 pm on September 15, 2008

  21. I have always run into the the argument “its just pasta and sauce and shouldn’t cost that much.”

    A lack of understanding of the flavor depth within the Italian country could also be contributing to the demise of so many restaurants. Maybe centering a restaurant concept around those various regions to educate your clientele? It wasn’t something I truly understood until I spent a month or so back-packing from Sorrento to Venice. Even the pizza changes from sandwich type slices to more traditional olive oil to Americanized with sauce.. its quite interesting.

    My grandmother was from Palermo region of the country the closest I have come to the same taste is some of the risotto/gnocchi at Taverna… maybe I can convince her to give me her recipes. Ha!

    @ 4:09 pm on September 15, 2008

  22. Italy probably suffers from distance-ignorance, much like how Irish and Scottish festivals are virtually identical here because nobody bothers to actually learn the differences between the peoples. If you Google “Northern Italian Dallas” or similar, most of the menus are generic Italian and the Northern Italian ones were the expensive ones.

    If most peoples’ first exposure to a cuisine was in a Warehouse or a Hut, it’s going to be difficult to convince some of them that there is a better, different (much more expensive) way.

    @Bethany I actually listened to her before she passed in June. I’m Irish-German and she liked my pizza better than her daughter’s, so apparently I was doing something right.

    @ 5:17 pm on September 15, 2008

  23. My experience is that you can’t get really good authentic Italian food unless you shell out the bucks. You can get American-Italian very reasonably. Ever since I got back from Italy I’ve spent a lot of time craving the real thing. I’m paying a lot more for it here than I did in Italy. But, what choice do I have? Angelo’s is just not it. I can do better myself at home. Buy authentic ingredients and it’s possible. Possible, but not cheap.

    @ 6:42 pm on September 15, 2008

  24. I think the real reason has been touched upon by a few wise sages. Just as Dallas created Uptown out of nowhere (anyone remember when it was just Lemmon and Mockingbird before the fancy signs arrived), V. Park is a vapid far reaching attempt at building a community. Unless you are the type of person who loves to hang with the boys at Ghostbar, it really is not an appealing destination. With the rip-off parking and valet situation mixed with some of the clientele who go there and the total lack of atmosphere, any upscale restaurant is going to have its work cut out. As for the dining experience, the food is key, but don’t forget atmosphere counts for a total experience. I would echo the comments of any number of the other local restaurants that are much more experience friendly. Nancy, perhaps the difference between LA and Dallas is that LA by and large hasn’t had to manufacture neighbourhoods. They develop because people are attracted ther by means other than economic stimulus. Mayor Leper are you listening?

    @ 7:22 am on September 16, 2008