Once upon a time, Avner Samuel told me he refused to serve chicken at Aurora. He wanted to educate diners to European ways. He wanted you to eat Bambi, and Thumper, and Kermit. Ya know what? I liked the idea. But now, we’re all so carbon footprint-y and green. Eating granola and hugging trees is no longer reserved for lipstick lesbians, we all do it. So forgive me if I smiled a big one when I opened a e-mail from Celeste Samuel announcing that her husband, chef Avner, is now serving “our most requested addition”, pan-seared JuHa Ranch free-range chicken. JuHa! Could that be the new Ranch Up?! According to Celeste, these chickens live better than most of us. Let’s listen:
They eat grass which is free of chemicals and a custom mixed feed composed of natural products. To achieve a low stress environment for growing, Pyrenees guard dogs protect them from predators. The laying hens are Rhode Island Reds this year.
Now according to the Internet, JuHa Ranch is just outside of Dallas. ROAD TRIP! Eat one first. (Way groovy music warning.) Aurora: 214-528-9400 for reservations. Lunch and dinner. Way to go, Avner.
I tried it. Tastes like chicken.
Maybe those lipstick lesbians were on to something.
The ranch is just otside Corsicana near Berry, Texas. It’s down a dusty road and run by some folks that just want to raise great tasting chickens and make a little money. I had a tasting with a French chef from Normandie. We compared the Juha, Organic Eberly from Amish and Mennonite farmers in Pennsylvania,a free range bird out of Sonoma California and anothe fine pedigreed bird I can’t recall. He chose the Juha without question. Said it reminded him of the Bresse bird from his homeland.
JuHa!