Articles for May, 2008

Bill “Freckle Face” Addison is a Weiner

Whoopsie-doodle, I mean winner. (What would I do without Spell Check?) Anywhoo, I just intercepted a secret DMN company memo announcing:

“Bill Addison will receive a national Association of Food Journalists award for restaurant criticism. The other finalists are: Will Ferrell for Talladega Dinner Nights and M.F.K. Fisher’s Recipes from the Grave. The ranking of the three awards will be announced at a conference in October.”

Kidding, so, so, so kidding. Way to go, Freckle Face, I hope you beat the pants off of your true rivals Lee Klein of Miami New Times and Tom Sietsema of The Washington Post-it.

Master Sommelier Drew Hendricks Moving to Houston

Yes, it’s true. I heard the nasty rumor today and didn’t want to believe it. I immediately called Drew Hendricks and he confirmed the sad news. He’s moving to Houston to work for Pappas Restaurants as the Director of Beverage Education. How could Dallas’ hottest sommelier leave our fair city? “I want to be able to spend more time with my family,” he said. Good enough reason. I guess. He promised he’d still be around for wine dinners from time to time at Pappas Bros. Steakhouse. His replacement at Charlie Palmer is not finalized, but we are going to guess that Brandan Kelley, who has worked with Hendricks since the hot spot opened last year, will be a natural replacement. We’re going to miss you, Drew.

France Gives In, Loosens Grip on Wine Laws

This isn’t exactly Dallas news, but news to Dallas wine lovers. In order to compete with global competition, France has loosened its grip on antiquated wine laws and regulations and will now allows growers to plant whatever they want, wherever they want. That means you’ll be able to buy a Pinot Noir from Bordeaux (if it will grow there) or a Cabernet Sauvignon from Burgundy. Believe it.

Inwood Village: Hot, Hot, Hot

Enough about Shinsei, eh? On to the burgeoning corner of Inwood and Lovers. Long ago, this was the epicenter for fine dining and it’s nice to see it blossom again. Last night I saw people walking and I don’t mean exercising. They were strolling from bar to restaurant to shop windows like people who live in real metropolitan areas. (This is Dallas, right?) Bijoux, Fireside Pies, Rise No. 1, Badovinus’ new place—all lovely spots. Plus, just west OF Inwood is Café Italia and one little restaurant where I like to hide, Patry’s Bistro & Wine Bar. Don’t tell Freckle Face, but I think he and Kim “Call Me Kardashian” Harwell hit this spot too hard. Best stuffed leeks I’ve ever had. Man, I’m into italics and handing out “bests” this morning. It’s got to be something in those shishito peppers. I mean, I am hooked. Oh well, it could be worse.

Shinsei: The Breakfast of Champions

dscn0142.JPGAs you may have guessed, I had dinner last night with some old (Hi, Dr. Kirkham!) friends at Shinsei. As usual the food was great: the vegetable tempura that includes avocado slices, tofu, and red peppers may be my favorite pre-meal nosh in town. Instead of ordering entrees, we loaded up on sides and sushi. And oh what a glorious meal: bok choy, broccolini, and the best Brussels sprouts EVER. I stuck to my standard bowl of veggie fried rice with an egg on top but this time I added an order of shiny and sweet shishito peppers to the mix. Ohmigod. Even better for breakfast this morning. Seriously.

Shinsei: The Red Basil Mojito

cock1.JPGI don’t know if Shinsei is participating in this all-things-pink weekend surrounding the opening of Sex and the City, but last night I spied a couple of folks sipping this gorgeous drink at the upstairs bar and had to give it a try. (I hear everything, including the popcorn, at the Inwood Theater is going to be pink, yuck.)  Instead of muddling mint, the bartender grabbed a handful of organic (natch) red basil and mashed it with sugar and rum. According to said bartender, they only make ‘em when they can get the red basil. When I left last night, he still had half of a bag. We were in the other.

Sometimes a Scarf is Just a Scarf

When I think of terrorism, Rachael Ray is probably one of the last people who comes to mind. But hey, that’s just me. CNN reports that Dunkin’ Donuts recently pulled an ad after complaints that the scarf she was wearing resembled a traditional Arab headdress.

The coffee and baked goods chain said the ad that began appearing online May 7 was pulled over the past weekend because “the possibility of misperception detracted from its original intention to promote our iced coffee.”

I wonder what Mrs. Ray thinks about all of this? I’m guessing it’s not “Yum-o!”

Back on Track

So, after being scolded last week for revealing Dale’s exit from Top Chef sooner than I should have, I’ve learned my lesson and will make no comments until after the jump, save for this, TC has reclaimed the No. 1 spot in my heart.

Warning! Spoilers start immediately after the jump.

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Dog Days for a Disher

Can someone please help this sweet Disher out:

My husband and I just got a new puppy.

I’m wondering where I can find a listing for restaurants and bars that allow puppies on their patio besides Lee Harveys? I need to get her socialized which means going out and about- she can’t go to lee harveys until she has her full immunizations!

I’ve seen people with dogs on the patios of Toulouse and Taverna. Does anyone else have ideas?

Pinot Tasting and Big Wine Sale

Two big jammy and juicy events are happening at Oak Lawn’s The Wine Market. This weekend, create your own Pinot tasting by selecting four of any nine featured wines for only $10. Afterwards, stock up your cellar. The Wine Market is moving and all of its wines are 25 percent off.

Go High and Get Higher

I don’t know why I tend to forget about the fabulous bar at Nana (warning: way groovy music), but I do. Now that the Chaparral Club is gone, the bar at Nana is the swankiest place in town to swirl a couple cocktails and dance. The lights of Dallas twinkle below while the soft jazz and sophisticated clientele make you feel hip in our somewhat square city. Perhaps it’s the Sex and the City glow going around town, but right now I feel like heading up the elevator to the 27th floor for a coconut mojito and a view of Dallas. Maybe Brian D, Sweany will bring his big Texas Monthly expense account to town and buy me one or ten.

The “Best of Texas” is a Big Claim

My Spanxs go off to the skinny bitch, Patricia Sharpe, and her crew that includes sweet Brian D. Sweany at Texas Monthly for, “BBQ08,” an exhaustive search for the best barbecue in the great state of Texas. Heck, I just try and cover two major cities and a few dozen in between and I can not imagine coordinating such an undertaking. I’ve tackled a few of their finds and have a couple others in my back pocket but Brian D. Sweany is going to have to buy me a rib before I talk. Read the feature and tell me what you think. Nice pictures too. (And yes, I agree with them about Dallas, we’re not such a great ‘cue town.)

Anywhoo, I just opened up an e-mail from another former D staffer, Mr. Rod “Don’t Call Me Rodney” Davis, who is now living in College Station. He points me to this link written by Robb Walsh at the Houston Press. Headline? “Best Burger in Texas?” Don’t get me wrong, I’m all about finding a nugget of a burger, rib, or side of pea salad in a ramshackle building in a small town. (Yo, those hog wings in Athens? Yes, please) I eat down and dirty all the time, but sometimes I find a lovely gem in a jewelry box. Like the cheeseburger at Taco Diner or the chicken fried steak at El Fenix. But best burger in Texas? I don’t think I could stomach that search. Unless you guys helped me out here.

Miracle Fruit Makes Everything Taste Sweet

The NYT has a piece on Miracle Fruit (Synsepalum Dulcificum) and the resulting “Flavor Tripping” parties.  Never heard of Miracle Fruit? Me either, but I want some. It sounds like something out of Harry Potter.

From Franz Aliquo’s blog (the guy who hosts the Flavor-Tripping Parties):

…miracle fruit (Sideroxylon dulcificum if you want to get all scientific about it), a cranberry-sized West African berry that that numbs your sour and bitter tastebuds for a couple of hours after eating it. That means that everything that used to taste sour now tastes sweet….after eating one stout beers taste like chocolate milkshakes, grapefruits taste like pixie sticks, cheeses taste like frosting, it will make even the crappiest tequila taste like lemonade (and strangely enough, it will make all wine taste like Manischewitz).

Anyone else see the massive potential this has? (Aside from being sold in Amsterdam coffee shops.)  For example, I recently had wasabi ice cream at the Nana bar. The ice cream was essentially a flavor delivery system for the wasabi. How would it taste after Miracle Fruit—like regular ice cream? I’m imagining entire meals that are eaten twice. Once without the fruit, and once with. Two totally different flavors, but the food wouldn’t change, you would.

If anyone’s tried Mircale Fruit, please sound off in the comments. In the mean time, I’m ordering some.

Update: Here are a couple first hand experiences from around the net.

Flavors From Afar says: “EVOO for all in McKinney”

Hey, you. Yeah, you foodies up in McKinney. Is the high cost of unleaded keeping you from purchasing some cold-pressed olive oil and that lovely lemon-artichoke tapenade you crave? Flavors From Afar in Snider Plaza feels your pain. The Park Cities gourmet boutique announces a new drop-off service in McKinney. Place your order in advance and you can pick it up each Wednesday (pickup location is specified when the order is placed). What, Plano? Not feeling the love? Not to worry. Any neighborhood or office pool located in Dallas or Collin County can receive free delivery as well as long as the order placed totals more than $100. Plus, the person coordinating the order receives a $25 gift card.

Admit It: You Want a Cosmo

beauty_pom_lo_rgb.jpgI’ve been struggling with it too, what with all the Sex and the City: The Movie hype. Let’s all give in together. Here’s an easy way, cuz I can’t figure out what’s in those darn things anyway: Head to Central Market and pick up some Modmix. It’s organic, it’s pink, and it looks great in a martini glass. Probably good to have some on hand after I see the movie this weekend.

Big D’s Dogs Closes

A SideDishian points out that Big D’s Dogs, which I wrote about a little less than a month ago, closed over the weekend. Not all is lost, as you can still get your frankfurter fix in the catering form. Hot dog catering you ask? I think it makes sense.

Also look for the Big D’s stand on lower Greenville. Let’s just hope he parks it outside the Libertine… Catering info after the jump.

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Somebody Help This Poor Man

A sushi-lovin’ birthday boy begs the question:

Where is the best, kid-friendly Sushi place in town? Is there such a thing? My family told me I get to go wherever I want for my birthday dinner - even sushi. So, now I’m on a quest to find a place with great, fresh food, but where my 5 year old and 9 month old won’t be completely out of place.

I’m saying Benihana. Besides their entertaining hibachi tables, Benihana has changed with the times and has an extensive sushi menu. I’ve taken my nieces there and they love it.

 

Nick Badovinus Readies to Open His Own Restaurant

img_8740.JPG‘Member Nick Badovinus, the cool-dude chef behind Tristan Simon’s Consilient Restaurants’ curtain? Badovinus left the cozy confines his uber-cool CR gig last December with the wishes, hopes, and dreams of opening his own restaurants. He has big plans for his newly formed company, FlavorHook, but he is smartly starting out small. As we type, Badovinus is meeting with contractors at his first project, tentatively called Neighborhood Services, that will open in old Rouge spot on Lovers just west of Inwood in the early fall. He’s stripping the walls back to the original brick and polishing the concrete floor for his “friendly, urban-rustic North American with a mash up of classic neighborhood default” restaurant. Roughly translated: Rustic Urban Gastro Pub/New American Diner Mash Up. Confused? Think: flatbreads, salads, roasted meats, and here’s the best deal—every day he will whip up 24 roasted chicken dinners and from 5 to 6pm, he’ll offer curbside pickup of said dinners. Sides will change weekly. “I’m all about being user friendly,” said Badovinus. “I want to do a small-footprint, neighborhood-focused, boutique space that is product driven for customer experience. Less shine; more patina.” That’s what he’s talking about.

Have a Happy Holiday

Dishers, we are out of here until Tuesday morning. Tune in then, I’ll have a big announcement for you. Seriously “bad” one. Tra la.

Hey Lakewood, Want to Really Eat Local?

Tomorrow from 10AM until noon, the green-thumbed students of Stonewall Jackson Elementary will be selling the produce from their school garden in from of the Whole Foods store on Lower Greenville. I love it. Somebody take pictures and send them to me.

Alright You Brats, It Is Time to Be Nice to Daddy

brat.jpgPlease continue check this post for updates on dining specials for Father’s Day and check it often. Although I am long-waisted, I’m a little short-handed right now and I don’t have the time or talent to put together a whiz-bang Father’s Day button, or whatever you call it, on this site. So every time I receive a press release or notice about Father’s Day, I will shamelessly copy and paste it below the jump. I’m sure I will be nominated for some web creativity award next year. Bear with me. (Ladies in the SideDish Choir, feel free to jump in.) OK, let’s get busy.

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Test Your Oyster Knowledge

oyster2.jpgDig deep in your soul—you know you’ve always wanted it. You’ve always wanted to write “ostreaphile” under occupation on your customs form. Now you can, at least without lying about it: sign up for Oceanaire’s Oyster College 101. The syllabus I received is a bit vague, but each class will “showcasing 10 varieties on the half-shell from select regions in North America including the popular Rhode Island Watch Hills, New Brunswick Caraquets and Virginia Rappahonocks. Additionally, selected wines will be paired to complement the samplings.” (Love second period!) Chef Chad Kelly will outline maps and notes about those slippery little critters while you sample away. The classes will be held at The Oceanaire Seafood Room from 12pm-2pm on June 21, July 12, July 26 and August 2. Cost is $40 per person. 972-759-2277. Open wide.

La Condessa? Only One Star? Really?

Ouch! DMN dining critic Bill Addison just handed out what I believe is the first one-star (out of five) rating under the News’ revamped star system to Victory hot spot La Condessa. I agree that the food is subpar. On my one and only visit, the queso came out stone cold, the chicken quesadillas were bland, the salsa was like spicy ketchup, and the chips stale. But the shrimp tacos were tasty, the margaritas on the mark, and my server was friendly and helpful unlike Mr. Addison’s rude waiter. Plus, the decor is Mexico City retro cool. But one lowly little star? Is it that bad? Now I see why Nancy doesn’t like the star system. What does everyone else think?

Somebody Help This Poor Girl

Just so you know, I am still trying to get the coconut pie recipe from Capital Grille. Now I can add the following Disher inquiry to my list of stuff to find out:

“Not sure if you’ve had this question before but I’ll shoot. What is the name of that chili paste stuff at Kobe Steaks [Japanese Restaurant] in Addison? It is awesome on just about anything and I would love to have some for dishes whipped up at home.”

Kobe Steaks in Addison? Holy cow, I forgot about that place. It’s been there at least a hundred years. I getting hungry just thinking about it. Awe. Some.

Father’s Day Recommendations TK

As I did with Mother’s Day, my big behind is running a little behind in getting all of the Father’s Day specials up on SideDish. (This dang print version we attempt to do every month sure gets in my way.) Anywhoo, I am saving up a big list of fabulous spots for your big daddy. Just give me a day. If you have a suggestion, drop it in the comments section.


SideDish is a food-related discussion among editors at D Magazine about the Dallas-Fort Worth dining scene -- everything from good meals to bad service, kitchen gossip to restaurant news, chefs’ secrets to culinary trends. Bon appetite.
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