I know most people remember L&O (not Law & Order, folks) as a dinnertime torture inflicted by caring mothers. Personally, I’ve always loved the organ meat, even as a kid. Done wrong, it’s chalky and dry. But in the right hands, it’s quite distinctive and tasty, whether it’s pan-fried or grilled, slathered in onions and bacon or brown gravy. So, where can I get some good L&O in Dallas? I love Cuquita’s (down and dirty) and Al Biernat’s (fine and fancy). But where else should I go?