Articles for January 21st, 2008

Nick Barclay Returning To Dallas?

I overheard a conversation between two gals who were all excited because they had talked to somebody who had spoken with somebody who knows Nick. And that somebody said that Nick, Kelli, and the kids were in town recently looking for a new house. Could we get that lucky?

Baddy Is Doing Good

Just off the phone with former-kinda-sorta still Consilient chef, Nick Badovinus. He’s hanging around his crib in Kessler Park and weighing his future. In a few weeks he’s gonna head to San Francisco for some R&R&R&D. We were talking about fancy pants high-end cusisine and I asked him what he thought about the French Laundry. He shot back in classic Baddyspeak: “The best thing about going to the French Laundry is the In-N–Out in Napa.” I couldn’t agree with him more.

Re: Fat Tuesday Celebration

Just don’t try the Richardson Big Shucks. That location is temporarily closed due to fire.

What’s a Richardson crawfish fan to do? Embrace the fire up the street at Fish on Fire.

Fat Tuesday Celebration

All Tuesdays are fat for me. But the folks at Aw Shucks and Big Shucks want to make February 5 even fatter. From 11:00 am-10:00om on the official New Orleans FT, they will feature crawfish for $3.95, Tecate beer for $2.00, and draft beer for $1.50. Hmm, $1.50 for a beer? That’s a good fattening time.

A Little Taste of Argentina

Once upon a time, a long time ago when most of you were still feasting on Similac, my good-almost-always-naked friend  and I used to hang at an Argentinean restaurant that occupied the building that recently housed Il Mulino. I can’t remember the name of it (JPJ, I’m looking at you) but I can still taste the queso fundido  and tapas plates that came out of that funky kitchen.  Anywhoo, that jaunt down memory lane brings me to this: on January 26, Salvatore Gisellu, the ever-evolving chef at Daddy Jack’s Wood Grill in Deep Ellum, is presenting a night of food and wine from Argentina—5 wines and 5 tapas for $35. High fives for that.  (It was El something or La something.)

Speaking of Liver and Onions…

I know most people remember L&O (not Law & Order, folks) as a dinnertime torture inflicted by caring mothers. Personally, I’ve always loved the organ meat, even as a kid. Done wrong, it’s chalky and dry. But in the right hands, it’s quite distinctive and tasty, whether it’s pan-fried or grilled, slathered in onions and bacon or brown gravy. So, where can I get some good L&O in Dallas? I love Cuquita’s (down and dirty) and Al Biernat’s (fine and fancy). But where else should I go?

The Mansion Is Turbot Charged

Yesterday I lunched at the Mansion with fifty of my best friends . It was the first time I’d seen the new modernized dining room and I have to admit I think it’s really pretty. But the food was amazing: pan-sautéed turbot served with big fat juicy fava beans and gnocchi all simmering in a delicate mustard reduction. If you are looking for a fine dining experience, this old gal is still the spot.

Cyclone Hits Oak Lawn

Cyclone Anaya’s Mexican Kitchen–a much loved mini-chain from Houston– makes its Dallas debut in early February. The original restaurant opened in the 1960s by a professional wrestler named Cyclone Anaya, hence the odd name. It finally closed in 1994 until his son Ricardo and wife Carolina resurrected the concept in 2005. Alas, the first Dallas location is going in one of the area’s most cursed spots: 211 Oak Lawn, next door to Green Papaya. Good luck with that, Cyclone. Recent tenant Nuevo Leon didn’t have much luck. Even acclaimed restaurateur Monica Greene (Monica’s Aca y Alla, the dearly departed Ciudad) couldn’t make it with the delicious chuckwagon cuisine of Cayuse, home to Dallas’ best liver and onions once upon a time. Oh well. Lets see if Cyclone can break the cycle.

Pulled Pork Sammiches: A Success!

Last week, I mentioned my attempt at Pulled Pork. The result was both tasty and easy. True to tradition, it isn’t—but, who cares when it takes only 15 mins of prep. Cooking time is a bit longer (8+ hours), so make sure you plan ahead. Keep reading for the recipe.

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SideDish is a food-related discussion among editors at D Magazine about the Dallas-Fort Worth dining scene -- everything from good meals to bad service, kitchen gossip to restaurant news, chefs’ secrets to culinary trends. Bon appetite.
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