Mini Review: La Cubanita

I went for lunch today, Nancy. Alberto Lombardi looks like he has another hit on his hands. Dressed in Caribbean blues and sea greens, the tiny dining room only seats 47 and the placed was packed. (And it’s only La Cubanita’s second day open.) We sat on the patio under heaters that didn’t work, but a round of cortaditos (Cuban sweetened espresso with steamed milk) kept us moderately warm. Hits included vegetarian empanadas stuffed with creamy spinach, mushrooms, and cojita cheese, Cuban cigars (crispy pork flautas), a fried catfish sandwich, and the best yucca fries I’ve had in Dallas. (Sorry, La Duni.) The yucca was moist and airy and the breading crisp and delicate. Seriously, I could have eaten an entire meal of those things. The only miss was a side of twice-cooked crispy green plantains. They were a little tough—once cooked would have been enough. Lombardi was there, working the crowd and looking quite the dandy. With his latest offering, I’m declaring the dapper Don the best restaurateur in Dallas. (Sorry, Tristan.) Any dissenting votes?